CL14

The CL14 Dinghy

Attach shroud wires 'A1, A2' (same length) to the tangs on each side of the houndband 'A3', 3/4 of the way up the mast. Reeve the jib halyard 'AA4' thru block 'AA5' at houndband. Pass ropetail over mast cleat on port side. Pass rope tail end over clevis in furling swivel 'AA6' (see furling detail) and secure with a half-hitch.

Reeve the end of the main halyard 'AA1' over sheave 'AA2' at the masthead. Rope end exits at lower sheave 'AA3' and secure halyard end to captive "D" shackle.

Attach the shroud adjusters 'A5, A6' to the shroud plates 'A7, A8'. Lift the mast to the vertical position, sail groove facing aft, and place in the mast step 'A9'. Attach safety line 'AA8' (see furling detail). Attach furling swivel 'AA6' (fastened to jib halyard) to the bow plate 'A11' forward hole. Tighten jib halyard and secure rope tail to mast cleat. Attach shrouds adjusters. Attach furling drum 'AA7' to rear hole in bow plate.

Notes:
I) If a second person is not available to help in stepping the mast great care must be taken to attach the furling swivel to the bow plate and to attach the safety line to ensure that there is no possibility of the mast falling. II) Because the CL14 furling system dispenses with the use of a forestay the securing line should be place at all times when sailing to help prevent the mast from falling in the unlikely event of halyard or furling gear breakage.

Adjust the rake of the mast (6" - 8" aft) and the tension of the shrouds with the shroud adjusters. It is important to maintain heavy tension on the jib halyard to keep the shrouds taut in order to check rake angle. Further adjustment will probably be necessary after sailing a few times, and the rigging should be checked periodically, and after sailing in variable winds.

Mainsheet 'B1'
Attach single block with becket 'B2' to the strap'B3' in the centre of the boom. Attach the sister block with jamb cleat 'B4' to the plate 'B5' on the centreboard case. Using the springs supplied to ensure the block stays upright. Reeve the mainsheet as shown in sketch "B". Secure end to becket of block with bowline.

Mainsail 'C'
Insert boom gooseneck 'C1' on to the mast. The foot 'C2' of the mainsail is fed into the groove of the boom from the forward end and drawn along. The lower forward sail cringle 'C3' is attached to the gooseneck fitting with a split pin and the sail pulled tight. The clew outhaul line 'C4' is fastened through the boom fitting 'C5' and cleated securely.

Insert the sail battens (3) 'C6' into the pockets in the mainsail. Connect the main halyard to the headsail cringle 'C7' with the captive "D" shackle. Insert the mainsail luff 'C8' into the mast slot and hoist to the top of the mast. Cleat the halyard securely 'C9'. Pull the boom down to tighten the sail luff and tighten the gooseneck wing nut 'C10'

Boom-Vang 'D'
Attach shackle on boom-vang lower block 'D1' to bail 'D2' at lower end of the mast. Insert key 'D3' attached to upper block 'D4' into slot on the boom. Pull line up to tighten and cleat into lower block.

Jib Sail 'E'
Attach forward sail cringle 'E1' to the furling drum. Detach the furling swivel from the bow plate and attach to the Cringle at the head of the jib 'E2'. Hoist the sail up tight and fasten to the mast cleat 'E3'. (See sail detail and rigging guide). The furling drum may be transferred to the centre slot in the bowplate if preferred.

Jib sheet 'F'
Lead the jib sheet (line) through the clew cringle 'F1' and when the line is divided evenly at each side of the sail, tie an overhand knot in the line at each side of the cringle to secure the jib sheet to the sail at this point, and then lead the jib sheets outside the shrouds port and starboard and through the fairleads 'F2, F3'. Tie a figure eight knot at the end of each jib sheet so that it cannot slip through the fairlead.

Using The Furling Gear:
The jib is furled by pulling the continuous line clockwise until the jib sail is rolled around itself. This facilitates spinnaker work, beaching the boat or docking safely. It is not recommended the sail be left furled for storage for extended periods. To eliminate the possibility of damage to the sail luff wire it is advisable to always furl the sail in a clockwise direction. Pulling continuous line will roll the jib and pulling on the jib sheet will unfurl it. Bear in mind that this is a furling gear and not a reefing gear. No roller device will work properly as a reefing gear unless the jib has a solid luff spar since without a spar there is nothing to keep the jib head in line with the tack.

Rudder 'G'
Install the rudder when the boat is launched by dropping it on the pintle 'G1' on the transom (back) of the boat. MAKE SURE THAT THE SPRING CLIP ENGAGES ON THE LOWER RUDDER HEAD GUDGEON SO THAT THE RUDDER ASSEMBLY IS SECURED TO THE BOAT AND CANNOT ACCIDENTALLY BE DETACHED. THE RUDDER ASSEMBLY DOES NOT FLOAT!

Slide the tiller'G3' into the rudder head 'G4' and insert pin attached to line. Attach the shock cord eye 'G5' to the hook under the tiller. NOTE: Do not pull the blade down with the shock cord until the boat is in at least 3ft. of water.

Centreboard 'H'
Remove the locking pin 'H1' and when the boat is in at least 4ft. of water pull the board back and down. IMPORTANT NOTE: Adjust the FRICTION PAD 'H2' when the board is fully down by tightening the TWO BOLTS 'H3, H4' with a long screwdriver. This flattens the friction pad to ensure that the centreboard will remain in a fixed position when set at various angles. The friction can be reduced or increased to suit and once the correct tension is established the board will maintain it's setting over the balance of the season. If the centreboard will not maintain it's position or if it comes up when coming about then increase the friction. Centreboard PIVOT BOLT. Inspect this periodically to ensure the bolt is tight enough to eliminate the possibility of a leak in this area. Tighten until thru rubber washers are just flattened but AVOID OER TIGHTENING as this could damage the centreboard case.

Toestraps 'J ' The toestrap (hiking straps) consist of 2" wide nylon webbing and three pieces of Dacron line. Divide the strap evenly and tie the middle to the deck strap 'J1' located aft of the centreboard case on cockpit floor. Pass each end under thwart 'J2' and through the plastic slot plates located each of the thwart underside. Tie ends to eyes 'J3, J4' located at each side of the centreboard case forward.

Getting Afloat
Having learned how to bend (rig) the sails by practicing on shore, the boat should be launched with the sails lowered and the boat moored to a dock or held at the waters edge with the bow of the boat facing into the wind. Hoist the sails and decide which tack is best to start sailing. In shallow water lower the centreboard a little way and leave the rudder blade up. Once in water 4ft. minimum the rudder blade can be lowered and the board pushed fully down.

GENERAL
Tools needed for rigging: Small pliers and a long screwdriver.

Hazards: Watch out for low overhead wires when rigging or launching at an unfamiliar site.

Safety: At all times a lifejacket should be worn by each person on board. Line for towing or mooring, a paddle and a bailing bucket should always be on board.

Maintenance: To avoid catching the jib sheets, or tearing sails or clothing, Split pins and 'O' rings always be taped with plastic electrical tape or adhesive tape. Regularly check all fittings, knots etc., to ensure nothing is working loose, and tighten where necessary. When trailering make sure all rigging is securely taped to the mast and all pins, shackles etc. properly secured. REMOVE WIND PENNANT from mast.

Hull: To help maintain colour and finish the hull should be washed off with warm soapy water at the end of the season and finish with one or two coats of boat wax.

Sails: For maximum wear the sails should always be dried off and folded and bagged. They may be washed occasionally by rinsing off with cooled water and sponging with a mild detergent. Do not use hot water, cleansers or a scrubbing brush. If any repairs or adjustments are required have these done by the sailmaker at the end of the season.

Woodwork: A light coating with boiled linseed oil or teak oil a couple of times a year. Sand lightly with #100 grit sandpaper if grain appears rough, prior to oil.

Minor gel coats
Sandpaper the areas to be repaired with #100 grit. Deep gouges should be grooved along the crack to enlarge and all dust thoroughly cleaned off. Gel coat should be catalyzed, approximately 1/ 4 teaspoon catalyst to 1/4 cup gel coat. Small Dixie cups are ideal for this purpose. Apply catalyzed gel coat with a small brush, or spatula (wooden coffee stick). When cured hard the area should be sanded using wet and dry paper in successively finer grades #240 - #600. Polish with rubbing compound, then wax. Minor scratches in the surface with fine grade paper then polished and waxed as above. Handle the catalyst carefully. If it comes into contact with skin, wash area immediately. If eyes are involved flush thoroughly and continuously with clear water immediately, and get medical attention. Catalyze only sufficient gel coat for immediate use. Clean fingers and tools with acetone. Cover any leftover catalyst gel coat with water and allow it to cool completely before disposal.