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Author
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Topic: Rub Rail moulding
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whited
unregistered
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posted May 13, 2002 09:57 AM
Does anyone know if the rub rail moulding listed at $ 75.00 for CL 16 replacement
part can be installed on a CL 14?
It mentions rivets, so I imagine numerous holes would have to be drilled in the
CL 14's gunwale.
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Celtic Kiss
unregistered
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posted May 13, 2002 11:51 AM
If I recall correctly, my rubrail (CL 16)simply slides over the lip that is molded into the gunwale. If there are rivets, there are very few.Robert
Celtic Kiss #2120
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Tom D CL16
Member
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posted May 13, 2002 01:28 PM
 
My CL16 has a few rivits on the bottom side of the rub rail. They do not show unless you look up underneath the rail. The rub rail slides over the lib where the deck and hull are connected.
Tom D
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CL Staff
Administrator
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posted May 15, 2002 01:09 AM
Hello:The moulding could be installed... as to a practical reason - there is none. THe moulding on the 16 is really to cover the hull and deck joint. On the 14 the hull and deck joint is sheltered from impact and thus is not really in need of a rubrail. However, West Marine sells a few mouldings that will go over the 14 gunwale. Something to chew on. Regards ------------------
Cody
Sailing Advisor/Sales manager/Web Development
CL SAILBOATS
codyc@clsailboats.com
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whited
unregistered
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posted May 15, 2002 12:59 PM
Hi Cody...
I thought it might be a replacement for fenders.
On the CL 14 there aren't a lot of places to tie a fender if coming alongside a larger boat. I feel two fenders would be ideal, but the two spots to tie on....
(at shrouds and jib sheet cam cleats)
are too close together.
I'll look at the West Marine site.
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whited
unregistered
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posted May 15, 2002 01:48 PM
Cody..
I just took a quick look at the West Marine
site.
The cheapest rub rail kit I saw was for
$ 120.00 Yankee dollars.
By the time it arrived up here that would double in our funny money.
Maybe I'll just lash a couple of the plastic empty 2 litre size coke bottles to the gunwale.
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Celtic Kiss
unregistered
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posted May 15, 2002 03:59 PM
Whited; Rather than use coke bottles, I sometimes use a plastic container that has a handle on it. IE a Javex bottle. The handle makes it easier to tie on to and I'd also suggest you put water in the bottles to help weight them down. That will prevent the bottles from riding out of place due to rubbing on the next boat, wharf from the wave action. Another thing I do is take a big (wide)fender and hang it LENGTHWISE along my boat. One end is secured to the jam cleat and I then secure the other end to the side-seats on the boat. If you choose that option be sure to place some anti-chafing gear (a rag, or a length of garden hose)to protect the seats. Robert
Celtic Kiss #2120
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Tom D CL16
Member
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posted May 15, 2002 04:09 PM
Fenders!! I use swimming noodles and cut them into 1/4. Run a line through the hole in the center and hang them over the side. Without a rail around the deck it is difficult to attach them so they will protect the boat. Also use 2 1x2 8'(the length should be greater than the distance between the posts) and tie one to the posts on the dock parallel to the dock deck, support #2 1x2 by lines shorter than the noodle fenders and hang the fenders from the top 1x2 so the rub rail hits the noodle fenders. The fenders are cushioned by the lower 1x2.
LOL tom d
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Summermemories
Member
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posted May 15, 2002 04:15 PM
For what it's worth- the previous owner of my CL14 installed four cleats(two forward of the shrouds and two about 6" forward of the transom).The forward cleats sometimes get tangled in the jib sheets (so I don't love them), but the rear cleats aren't really in the way of anything. They make a convenient tie-down point for trailering and could also be used to hang a fender. They are also fairly well-placed for lashing down the tiller. Much cheaper than installing rubrail.
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whited
unregistered
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posted May 16, 2002 08:55 AM
I was thinking of adding a cleat both port and starboard near the transom.
I'll just have to be carefull drilling the holes and probably should reinforce the fibreglass by building up the thickness
under the gunwale.
(I already own two never used fenders)
I'd probably like some kind of cap at the bow though.
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Celtic Kiss
unregistered
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posted May 16, 2002 03:19 PM
Don; Check out one of the local sailing schools for the bow fitting. There is a good chance they may have the bumper you're referring to.
If not, you could try incorporating Tom's idea of the swimming noodles. Cut one that can be strategically placed over the stem and you have your bow-bumper. A normal fender is too rigid to do the job as it won't conform to the shape of the hull. Thus it falls to one side and basically becomes useless.
With regards to installing cleats at the transom area. I installed docking rings on the gunwale in the stern area. I used 1/2 pieces of plywood for the backing plates. I decided to go with rings instead of cleats because there is less chance for a slack mainsheet to get hooked. If you've ever sailed a Laser I'm sure you know what I mean. On a Laser the mainsheet regualary gets caught on the corner of the stern and has caused many a capsize.
Robert
Celtic Kiss #2120
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