posted June 18, 2002 08:39 AM
Just some ruminations after this spring's boatwork. We removed the step and rebedded it with 3M 5200. The old bedding was dried out and partly missing after 26 years. Indeed all the deck fittings were in need of rebedding...and large new backing washers and nylock nuts were fitted. Most of the screws securing the bow casting were loose. Holding the new washers and nuts inside the anchor locker was fun! Beware of any sharp splinters of fibreglass mat inside.
Superpiper: To help tension the forestay so that you can begin to thread the turnbuckle why not rig a two-part tackle for some mechanical advantage. Fasten a light line to the bow casting (mine has two holes), run it through a small block shackled above the top of the upper part of the turnbuckle and then back around the bow roller. Then pull the line to bring the turnbuckle closer together for threading.
BTW I always spin the turnbuckle barrel onto the stationary (lower) end by 1-1/2 turns before engaging it into the upper (shroud) end. This will ensure that when you unscrew it in the fall it will come apart at the top end, remaining attached to the boat and not dropping into the water or on the ground.
The sound "Plink....Splash" of a fitting going overboard is an expensive nuisance.
Turnbuckle lubricant (lanolin based) makes the job easier.
ShortWave has has plastic sail slugs sewn into the mains'l luff. It allows flaking the main without dropping the luff rope out of the mast slot.
Our main has single point "jiffy" reefing. I used to have a brass screw-in stopper to prevent the sail slugs from falling out of the luff groove when lowering it, either for stowage or to take in a reef. After losing one stopper overboard on a windy day I searched for a better solution.
Nick from Genco gave me an idea for a easier mast luff sail stopper.
We drilled a 1/8" hole thru through the trailing edge of the mast and inserted a stainless cotter pin, secured by a small wire safety lanyard. The pin was crimped in a vice to give it a bumped shape at the open end, this gives it some spring tension when pushed into the hole.