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Author Topic:   Keeping the water out and other hints
Ken
Member
posted June 18, 2002 08:39 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Ken   Click Here to Email Ken     
Just some ruminations after this spring's boatwork.

We removed the step and rebedded it with 3M 5200. The old bedding was dried out and partly missing after 26 years. Indeed all the deck fittings were in need of rebedding...and large new backing washers and nylock nuts were fitted. Most of the screws securing the bow casting were loose. Holding the new washers and nuts inside the anchor locker was fun! Beware of any sharp splinters of fibreglass mat inside.

Superpiper: To help tension the forestay so that you can begin to thread the turnbuckle why not rig a two-part tackle for some mechanical advantage. Fasten a light line to the bow casting (mine has two holes), run it through a small block shackled above the top of the upper part of the turnbuckle and then back around the bow roller. Then pull the line to bring the turnbuckle closer together for threading.

BTW I always spin the turnbuckle barrel onto the stationary (lower) end by 1-1/2 turns before engaging it into the upper (shroud) end. This will ensure that when you unscrew it in the fall it will come apart at the top end, remaining attached to the boat and not dropping into the water or on the ground.
The sound "Plink....Splash" of a fitting going overboard is an expensive nuisance.
Turnbuckle lubricant (lanolin based) makes the job easier.

ShortWave has has plastic sail slugs sewn into the mains'l luff. It allows flaking the main without dropping the luff rope out of the mast slot.
Our main has single point "jiffy" reefing. I used to have a brass screw-in stopper to prevent the sail slugs from falling out of the luff groove when lowering it, either for stowage or to take in a reef. After losing one stopper overboard on a windy day I searched for a better solution.

Nick from Genco gave me an idea for a easier mast luff sail stopper.
We drilled a 1/8" hole thru through the trailing edge of the mast and inserted a stainless cotter pin, secured by a small wire safety lanyard. The pin was crimped in a vice to give it a bumped shape at the open end, this gives it some spring tension when pushed into the hole.


Eric
Member
posted June 20, 2002 09:39 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Eric   Click Here to Email Eric     
Very insightful!
I purchased the Silkaflex bedding compound. Haven't used it yet but others have told me it's ok.(comments?)
I have to still drill out the holes I epoxied, and reinstall all my wood, genoa car tracks, and main traveller track. See previous post for question.
I was nervous about the epoxy work but it has turned out ok so far.
Now I'm nervous about drilling! Hopefully it'll go good too.

Eric

Ken
Member
posted June 20, 2002 02:36 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Ken   Click Here to Email Ken     
Eric:
I had to drill out a 2 inch hole in the bottom of my sandpiper for the depth sounder transducer.
NOW THAT'S PRESSURE !!!

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"Drop a load of gurry overboard on Tuesday and it'll still be wit ye on Saturday"


Celtic Kiss
unregistered
posted June 20, 2002 10:25 PM           
Lately I,ve been doing a lot of body repair on an old car filling holes etc. with an autobody repair kit from Canadian Tire. I wonder how durable that stuff would be if used for underhull repair. It could make for a good seal around thru-hull fittings.
Any ideas?

Robert
Celtic Kiss #2120


Eric
Member
posted June 21, 2002 07:27 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Eric   Click Here to Email Eric     
Ken: YIKES!!!!!!!

Robert: I'm no expert, but for below waterline work I would seek professional advice whether or not the resins are compatible with each other,(auto vs. marine) as I understand there are differences etc.

I went the expensive route-- West system epoxy. There are places on the web ie:Plasticworld, and Noahs etc that carry West and other brands of polyesters and epoxies.(These guys are in Toronto)
On the otherhand I used some Mastercraft spot filler putty on the leading edge of the centerboard to smooth out some chips when I first got my boat and it's still there!

Eric

Sailorbill
Member
posted June 21, 2002 07:41 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Sailorbill   Click Here to Email Sailorbill     
Ken: How thick was the hull where you cut out the 2" hole for the depthsounder. Also what location did you pick for the installation?

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Sailorbill


Ken
Member
posted June 24, 2002 01:12 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Ken   Click Here to Email Ken     
The hole is in the thinnest part of the hull that I could access from inside the starboard seat locker. This is as close to the boat's centreline as I could get it....so the ultrasonic beam probably doesn't point straight down...but that's a compromise I suppose. The hole size is determined by the diameter of the transducer barrel. Most depth sounders use a frequency of 25 KHz. Check with the manufacturer. Mine was between 1 and 2 inches in diameter I think. The thickness of the hull appeared to be around 1/4 inch! I used a hole saw on a big 1/2 inch electric drill. The hole is approximately 1/3 the way along inside the locker...as close to the keel as possible. There must be room allowed for a retaining nut inside...so maybe 2 inches from the keel side of the locker wall? I covered the part that projects inside the hull with sprayed "Hot Stuff" foam and a big yogurt container for protection from all the junk I keep in the locker.
The transducer was liberally bedded with 3M 5200 on both sides of the hull.
The wire cannot be shortened!!!! Run it up inside the top of the locker and then between the hull and the "Cabin" skin molding. There's a bit of room there to fish it through. Important. DO NOT CUT OR SHORTEN THE TRANSDUCER CABLE

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"Drop a load of gurry overboard on Tuesday and it'll still be wit ye on Saturday"


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