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Author
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Topic: Getting my sailboat.... up to standards.
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Canadian Sailor
unregistered
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posted May 14, 2003 04:13 PM
Unfortunately, I didn't inspect my boat too much, and now I have discovered cracks. They are: one near the centerboard case; the others on either side, on the bottom of the cockpit.
I told my dad this, and his first thought was to bring it to a repair shop. I disagreed with him, not wanting to trailer my boat all the way back to Kingston. I told him I'd ask you guys, and try to fix them myself. So here I am  .Any help is appreciated ------------------
Canadian Sailor ;)
"Before you criticize someone, you should walk a mile in their shoes. That way, when you
criticize them, you're a mile away and you have their shoes."
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Celtic Kiss
unregistered
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posted May 14, 2003 08:01 PM
Sorry to hear about your problem  Unless the repairs are really major, I'd forget about a boatyard too. But before you tackle this yourself I'd suggest you get your hands on a video that demonstrates all the steps for proper fibreglass repair. West marine has a really good video for this. (Y)(Y)
You can probably get one at most chandeleries in the GTA. You can find a listing for a lot of chandeleries in Gam Magazine, Ontario Sailor, or Canadian Yachting. Good Luck ------------------
Robert
Celtic Kiss #2120
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Tom D CL16
Member
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posted May 14, 2003 08:32 PM
 
West Systems Epoxy sold at most marine stores has a pamphlet on fixing glass boats.
I had several bad scratches and gouges in my hull. I fixed it with thickened epoxy.
First clean the area near the crack with soap and water. I then went over the area with a solvent acetone works best. This will remove any wax or grease on the hull.
If the cracks are relatively narrow you may only need to fill without cloth.( ? ? ?)
I use wood dust from my sander for a thicken agent for epoxy or you can buy it with the epoxy. Mix a small batch and thicken like peanut butter and fill the crack and smooth the best you can with plastic putty knife.
After it sets up, place a piece of glass cloth (4 oz is pefect) overlapping the filled area several inches.
The glass is covered with unthickened epoxy several coats per manufactures instructions.
Epoxy has a low UV protection so it must be painted after manufactures recommended time.
It isn't as difficult as it seems. Do a small area at a time.
USE OLD CLOTHES AND LATEX OR SIMILAR GLOVES. Acetone is best clean up also I have heard people using household vinegar.
Good Luck
Tom D.
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Tom D CL16
Member
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posted May 14, 2003 08:34 PM
OPPPPPPPPPPS
I forgot you should sand the area a little to give the epoxy a little bite area.
Tom D.0000000000000000
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Celtic Kiss
unregistered
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posted May 15, 2003 01:00 AM
I'm glad that Tom saw this. He's the first person I'd run to. 
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Canadian Sailor
unregistered
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posted May 16, 2003 10:06 AM
Thanks Tom, I should get the supplies this afternoon at Canadian Tire.Now I have another problem... I got the centerboard, but there are no instructions, so I checked this site, but there are no instructions either... so:
"How do you install a CL16 centerboard?" ------------------
Canadian Sailor ;)
"Before you criticize someone, you should walk a mile in their shoes. That way, when you
criticize them, you're a mile away and you have their shoes."
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Celtic Kiss
unregistered
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posted May 16, 2003 11:29 AM
Installing the centreboard is not too complex and I'll tell you three methods.1) Flip the boat on it's side so it IS resting on the rubrail, this will not damage the boat especially if in a grassy area. Brace the boat with 2x4's etc and you now have a centerboard trunk that is parallel to the ground. 2) Flip the boat upside down and let gravity work FOR you. A good trick when doing this is to place some old tires on the ground where the boat will rest. I did this and was sure to have the center of the tire in line with the chainplate that holds the shrouds. The tires prevent the boat from resting on them causing a bend. Also be sure that NO WEIGHT IS RESTING ON THE SPLASHBOARD. Once you have that done, it's a simple matter of crawling underneath the unturned hull and line the board up for the bolt. 3) IF YOU WISH TO KEEP THE BOAT ON THE TRAILER. Simply pull the boat back so it is half on the trailer and half off the trailer. Place a support under the transom so the boat is completely suspended from the ground. Have the board lined up while someone else tightens the bolts. When tightening the bolt be sure that you use the rubber washers for a water seal. If you don't use the rubber washers, water is sure to leak into your bilge.
Good luck!!
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Robert
Celtic Kiss #2120
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Eric
Member
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posted May 16, 2003 07:32 PM
CDN Sailor, where do you live? One of us here maybe able to help you locating a sailing shop or chandlery. CDN Tire doesn't have West System, and are limited on quality supplies. Don't get me wrong, I use them, Princess Auto, and Home Depot, when I can, but sometimes you have to go to specialized shops to get quality material, and expertise, which you will not get from CDN Tire. One thing you don't want, is to re-do the repairs a couple years down the road. Just my $0.02. Cheers Eric
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Canadian Sailor
unregistered
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posted May 17, 2003 07:41 AM
Here is my list of purchases:
80 grit sandpaper
bondo Fiberglass Repair Kit
bondo Glazing & Spot Putty (the Fiberglass Repair Kit told me to buy it...)
MotoMaster Acetone
Tremclad Rust Paint (the guy at Canadian Tire said it would work almost as well as the antifouling paint as the repairs are above the water line) in medium blue and flat white.
Reese's bar (I got hungry)This was after an hour of searching. ------------------
Canadian Sailor ;)
"Before you criticize someone, you should walk a mile in their shoes. That way, when you
criticize them, you're a mile away and you have their shoes."
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Canadian Sailor
unregistered
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posted May 18, 2003 12:35 PM
Robert:Can this be done in the water? As I attempted method 3, but found that the centerboard wasn't able to fully extend, so I couldn't get it out.
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Canadian Sailor
unregistered
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posted May 20, 2003 05:10 PM
Two more things:1. What should be put on teak? 2. I appear to have autobailers, they are black in a metallic casing, and you can pull them up with a metal... movey-thingy. Problem is, the water never seems to drain. ------------------
Canadian Sailor ;)
"Before you criticize someone, you should walk a mile in their shoes. That way, when you
criticize them, you're a mile away and you have their shoes."
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Tom D CL16
Member
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posted May 20, 2003 09:29 PM
The marina stores will have a teak oil. Several coats rub it in and it will last several seasons if not left in the sun.
Very similar to using tung oil on furniture except it is outdoor protective. Won't need sanding next year rub a little more in.
Auto bailers will work only when the boat is moveing. They act like a venturi and suck the water out as the boat moves forward. Left open while setting still the will let water in.
Tom D
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te
unregistered
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posted June 26, 2003 09:10 PM
quote:
Originally posted by Tom D CL16:
Auto bailers will work only when the boat is moveing. They act like a venturi and suck the water out as the boat moves forward. Left open while setting still the will let water in.
Tom D
Of course they also should work if the boat is out of the water, on the trailer. [This message has been edited by Pathfinder (edited February 09, 2008).]
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