posted October 27, 2004 08:10 PM            

Eric

posted October 29, 2004 11:03 AM         

There are no pump-out facilities on our cottage lake. I would tell the OPP that the port-a-potti is better than hanging over the transom.

posted October 29, 2004 03:02 PM            

Just make sure you re-connect securely

posted November 14, 2004 12:31 PM         

But, in Elmet3's Oct 24 post there was the phrase: "All parts of the system . . . are congruent . . ." Does that mean that the discharge hose could not be made detachable? Would it be possible to stow the hose when it was not in use?

I also have a VIP-8L from Sanitation Equipment. It fit the old installation perfectly. I am now trying to convert it to a proper MSD. I have sent an e-mail to sanitationequipment@sympatico.ca.

If a removable hose is legal, I intend to camlock it to the deck fitting and drop the other end through the toilet bowl's flush valve. The VIP-8L does not have a hose connection. The discharge cap is covered by the removable bowl and fresh water reservoir.

posted November 14, 2004 10:11 PM            

Keep us up to date on your progress.

posted November 18, 2004 04:22 AM         

Sanitation Equipment faxed the following letter. I think that it requires some studying and some interpretation. According to the letter, the pump-out hose does not need to be permanently attached. I have some ideas of my own that I am working on.

We are happy to hear that you are so pleased with your VIP8L toilet.

To use your VIP 8L, you would have to do the following.........

1- Install the VIP8L into the boat with permanent brackets. MSRP $22.28
2- Install a deck fitting for pump-out if not already in place.
3- Purchase a pump-out plate for the 8L marine version. MSRP $17.66
4- Purchase a pour spout assembly for one of the larger models. MSRP $17.73

What this will enable you to do is to utilize your 8L toilet and when required, remove the bowl assembly, remove the holding tank cap and replace the cap with the pump-out plate. The unit can then be pumped out through the deck fitting installed. When pumping out is complete, remove the pump-out plate assembly and reattach the holding tank cap. Then tread the pump-out plate onto the pour spout assembly for when it is not in use. This will protect anything from coming into contact with the pump-out plate that was just in your waste tank as well as any odours that may be present.

This is the only idea I have if you do not wish to purchase a marine toilet for the application but in parts alone, you're already over $50.00 plus taxes, shipping etc.

Good Luck. Please contact us if we can be of any further assistance.

David Fleming I.E.T.
Q.A./ Engineering Manager
Sanitation Equipment Limited

posted November 19, 2004 04:38 AM         

Here is an idea for you.

The drain in the bottom of the blue bucket comes apart like a bathtub or wash basin drain. That is, the chromed piece on the inside of the bucket unscrews from the cast bronze tailpiece under the bucket. So if you choose, you could drill a hole the same diameter in the same relative location into the bottom of the VIP 8L and re-install the existing drain.

Job done.

I am considering something a little more complicated for my boat. The pumpout hose was completely removed a few years ago. I will post a cartoon of my proposed installation for the group to comment.

posted February 13, 2005 09:11 AM            

My initial thoughts would be that if there seems to be no fibreglas barrier between the bucket and floatation filling, there would be no issue with taking out the bucket and simply trimming to make a MSD unit fit. Are you planning on putting a VIP 8L as well? I think I will do this modification as well, I know the "factory" plumbing (unlike many it seems) is still there. I would look at hooking it up on the bottom of the unit as mentioned a couple posts back.

I'm sure you'll keep us updated, pics would be GREAT too!!

posted February 14, 2005 04:38 AM         

The VIP-8L fit perfectly in my Sandpiper. The blue pot was removed and the liner was cut out to the full extent of the recess. The head has to be tilted flush-side-first into the cutout.

I did not find a piece of plywood under the blue pot. There was just the expanded foam supporting the fixture. So, I trimmed it flat, made a 3-sided styrofoam box and finished the enclosure.

You may notice that the expanded foam completely filled the port side at the access port. But, the starboard side was less than full. I may take advantage of this void to make a hose connection to the head.

posted February 14, 2005 08:09 AM            

Great pics and great work, that is exactly how I hoped it would fit

posted February 14, 2005 08:36 AM            

What I'm asking. have any of you tried to use yours? You might want to see how it will work before you go through the trouble of a fixed install.

posted February 16, 2005 05:08 PM            

quote:

---

Originally posted by Patrick Crooks:
I take it there was a change in designs at some point. I have a complete opening (Open from the top and front) in the area for the head. Almost like it was designed for a true marine wet/dry head.

---

posted April 05, 2005 08:49 PM            

That's the first time I see a piper with such of an installation. Mine has a cavity where you place the can. I placed a little toilet from Canadian tire, 18 liter I guess. Work as magic.

I never saw either the 2 holes in the front. I have always wonder what things looked like under the front berth.

Tell me something please. If you pour water in one of theses holes, where would the water go?

I have sometimes a little bit of water in this section and I was asking myself if it could run as far as the back of the boat and freeze to crack everything during the winter.

I know the water seems to come from the evacuating hose on the deck. Gotta fix the problem this spring.

Thanks for the pictures.

posted April 07, 2005 02:26 PM            

Maybe they thought that we were a pirate ship......getting ready to keel haul a female captive?