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Author Topic:   Stepping mast on a Sandpiper
Sailorbill
Member
posted June 11, 2002 07:27 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Sailorbill   Click Here to Email Sailorbill     
Hello, list.
Can anybody tell me how to step and unstep the mast on my newly-aquired Sandpiper?
How many people, who does what, do I leave the trailer attached to the car? What about tension on the shrouds and forestay?

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Sailorbill


Darcy
Member
posted June 12, 2002 08:00 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Darcy   Click Here to Email Darcy     
If I might add to this posting: Has anyone ever lowered their mast while moving to get under a low bridge and then put it back up? We're in an area where being able to do this would open up miles of beautiful cruising.

D'Arcy

Ken
Member
posted June 12, 2002 02:45 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Ken   Click Here to Email Ken     
My Sandpiper was originally kept in a marina at Bridgeport Ontario, motoring mast down under a causeway and then they raised the mast singlehandedly with a sheet winch and a wooden wishbone strut system. The wishbone pivoted and stowed on deck when sailing. I use this method every spring before launch.
I would be very pleased to send my drawings by email attachments (two files) to anyone who requests them.
Regards, Ken

kengoodings@sympatico.ca

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"Drop a load of gurry overboard on Tuesday and it'll still be wit ye on Saturday"


Ken
Member
posted June 13, 2002 09:51 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Ken   Click Here to Email Ken     
For the general interest of some members of this list, here is an extract of my email to SailorBill regarding mast stepping. I have three drawings of my system that I can send upon request.....Cheers...Ken
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Supposing that your mast step is the stock unit from C&L. In that case the mast must be lifted manually (three people is best) and socketed into the receiving part on the cabin roof (tabernacle)

Two people to lift the mast, while the third person steadys the mast rigging and then connects the forestay to the bow casting. The mast should initially be laid along the length of the top of the boat...protruding over the stern. The two shrouds on both sides can be loosely connected first before raising the mast. When the mast is vertical, connect the forestay, then tighten all three turnbuckles.
I cannot advise how tight they should be, as every setup is different, but the mast should be raked back at a slight angle from the vertical.
Tighten the three turnbuckles until the mast is straight along the boat's centre line with a rake backwards. This backwards rake is necessary on most boats to reduce sail imbalance which will potentially cause the boat to have a dangerous steering condition known as lee helm.
This is defined as a tendency to go down wind when the tiller is released and is a very undesirable trait.
Ideally, in moderate to strong winds the boat should round up into the wind when you release the tiller, (slight weather helm)
You might have to play with this angle of rake to achieve a slight amount of weather helm in moderate winds. This is achieved by adjusting the forestay turnbuckle a bit and then taking up the slack by adjusting the two shroud turnbuckles. I had to put an extension fitting on the forestay to achieve good weather helm trim. The whole idea is to get the centre of total sail effort slightly aft of the center of total underwater lateral resistance caused by the centre board when sailing to windward with both jib and mainsails.

How tight should the shrouds be? This is a simple three part rig, and without inner stays to provide maximum support, the mast will flex slightly while on a beat in moderate to heavy winds. The leeward shroud will slacken...it's quite unnerving at first until you analyze (and accept) the dynamics of such a simple rig. The shrouds should be reasonably tight while the boat's at the dock or on the trailer.....without breaking any deck hardware by over-tightening.

The angles between the upper and lower parts of the shrouds and the spreader should be equal. This is important in order to prevent bending stresses on the spreaders. I have crimped copper sleeves onto the shroud wires on either side of the spreader to keep it in position. Either buy a white rubber spreader boot or tape up the connection with white rigging tape. This will reduce abrasion to the mainsail when on a run downwind.

Make sure the Windex is properly mounted and protected while the mast is horizontal. They're $50 and easily broken.

The use of split-ring keepers rather than cotter pins on turnbuckles and all other rigging fittings will prevent snagging fingers and toes.

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There's a pivoting tabernacle on my boat. I attach the bottom of my mast to it with a single 5/8 " stainless bolt. With the wooden "A" frame shown in the attached drawings, and using a line around the mainsail winch, the whole mast goes up or down single-handed. The first owner devised this system to motor under a causeway and then raise the mast when out on the lake. While motoring the mast remains bolted to the pivoting tabernacle and protrudes over the stern. The wishbone "A" frame remained on deck whether sailing or motoring. I raise the mast on the trailer and then remove the "A" frame after rigging. "ShortWave" remains on a mooring all summer.
The shrouds remained connected and properly adjusted, and the forestay was connected with a quick release pin through the bow casting and then tightened to a predetermined setting using a Wichard cam-locked lever.

I've attached two drawings of the mast stepping rig, a line drawing of the Sandpiper 565 from the manual, and a picture of ShortWave at her mooring.

Regards......Ken

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"Drop a load of gurry overboard on Tuesday and it'll still be wit ye on Saturday"


Eric
Member
posted June 14, 2002 08:32 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Eric   Click Here to Email Eric     
I've raised my mast with only two of us.
The person who connects the forestay can assist with raising the mast if you tie a spare line to the end of the forestay and feed it through the bow roller and back onto the deck. Now together the mast is raised by the line through the roller, and by the guy lifting the mast. Once the forestay is close to bow plate, connection can then be made. The person holding the mast can also hold the tail of line until the forestay is connected.
Hope you can understand this! You may have to do a little reading between the lines(oops, pardon the pun)!!
Cheers, Eric


SuperPiper
unregistered
posted June 18, 2002 05:09 AM           
I have frequently stepped the mast by myself. I replace the foredeck crew with the jib halyard tied off to the pulpit. Once I get the mast vertical, I place a shoulder against it and haul in the halyard until there is tension on the rig.

The hard part is getting the forestay fastened against the tension of the rig. I find that my turnbuckles don't offer enough extension and the forestay just does not want to reach. I have spent time drooling over the West Marine catalog and considering quick-release shroud tensioners.

Has anyone quantified the amount of deck flex due to the compression of the mast?

Ken
Member
posted June 18, 2002 08:21 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Ken   Click Here to Email Ken     
I've never been able to see any result of deflecton of the coach roof due to the weight and tension of the rig. No cracks or crazing in the gelcoat. There is a stiffener of some sort running tranversly and glassed into the inside of the cabin roof, seems to be tubular in shape...I always surmised that it was an aluminum strut.


Ken
Member
posted June 18, 2002 11:38 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Ken   Click Here to Email Ken     
Superpiper:
You may have my Wichard quick-release forestay tensioner free for the asking. Let me know your address and I'll look into the cost of shipping it to you.

kengoodings@sympatico.ca

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"Drop a load of gurry overboard on Tuesday and it'll still be wit ye on Saturday"


Sailorbill
Member
posted June 18, 2002 12:23 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Sailorbill   Click Here to Email Sailorbill     
Why do you prefer not to use the tensioner?

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Sailorbill


Ken
Member
posted June 18, 2002 02:01 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Ken   Click Here to Email Ken     
When my boat was motored under a causeway (previous owner) and then stepped with the wishbone strut while underway, the tensioner was connected to the bottom of the forestay. My jib furling reel is there now and since I only rig the boat once in early spring the tensioner is not needed. This Wichard unit is a cam-locked lever with adjustable pre-set tension.


Darcy
Member
posted June 21, 2002 12:58 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Darcy   Click Here to Email Darcy     
Ken:
You mentioned that you had posted a drawing that shows how your mast stepping rig works. How do I access the drawings from this forum?

D'Arcy

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