posted May 02, 2004 01:41 PM            

I read and responded to your post at trailersailor.com with regards to your reefing question. I went through this exact scenario two years ago and posted my results and measurements on this forum. The thread is entitled "My single line reefing system" Dated on December 14, 2002.

I hope it will be of some benefit to you. FYI my boom is 9 feet long which I think is very close to that of the Sandpiper.

posted May 04, 2004 07:15 AM            

Thanks again Robert!

Eric

Topic: My Single Line Reefing System
Celtic Kiss
Member posted December 14, 2002 03:11 AM
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Hey Folks
I'm back from a very successful trip in N.S. Overall I am extremely pleased with all modifications I've done to Celtic Kiss.

The biggest improvement was installing a single-line reefing system. I was asked to give some specs of the project and now I finally have an opportunity to share them with you. After installing the system I took measurements but unfortunately I can't find that sheet of paper I wrote them on so I'll have to go by memory.

First of all, when I did the project the boat was on the trailer with the mainsail hoisted. This gave me a better feel for the rig as the project unfolded.

** All imperial measurements are taken from the front of the end-cap on the boom.

A deck cleat is pop-riveted (Glad I listened to you guys) to the mast (starboard side) a few inches below the horn-cleat for the jib halyard. From there the reefing line is run upward to what I will call the reef tack. (A line is also placed here so I can tie the reef tack snug to the mast.) From there the reefing line goes down to a cheek-block (port side) that is located 2.5 inches behind the front end-cap of the boom. At this point the line is run back to another cheek-block (port-side of boom) to a point 105 inches aft of the front end-cap of the boom. From this 2nd cheek block, the line then takes an upward turn to the reef clew(aft reefing point) where it then takes a turn downward to an awaiting deck cleat (starboard side) that is roughly 108 inches behind the front end-cap of the boom. At the aft edge of the sail the reefing line should pull the sail downward and AFT. At this point the line then runs forward to a cam cleat that is positioned at approximately 92 inches behind the front end-cap of the boom.

At this point I thought I was done, but during sea trials I learned that it would be more efficient if I put a second cam cleat near the front of the boom. I had to be up by the mast anyway to lower to main halyard and thought it made sense to have the reefing line forward with me. Therefore, I put a second cam cleat 28 inches behind the forward end-cap of the boom. This enables me to simultaneously control the main halyard with my right hand and the reefing line with my left hand. Considering the strain involved, I think it better for two aluminum cam cleats to share the load rather than rely on a single cleat.

With this system I can heave-to and have the mainsail reefed in less than 30 seconds.

If you decide to do this to your boat please note that my measurements are not written in stone. I stongly suggest that you have your boat on land, hoist the mainsail and then go from there. When I actually did the work, I eyeballed everything. This was a surprisingly long job but the dividends have already begun to pay off.

A topping lift is also used to help prevent the boom from falling into the cockpit. It is important to note that the clip on the mast and boom are both on the starboard side. This prevents the line from interfering with the leech of the sail.

The hardware I attached to the boom and mast are stainless. As a measure to combat rusting between dissimilar metals, I painted the SS hardware, with Tremclad rust paint, at the points it would come into contact with the aluminum boom and pop-rivets.

posted May 04, 2004 10:37 AM            

http://www.victoriayachts.com/vicsite/jifyreef.html

Further reefing hints.....Mark the halyard with black marker opposite the matching position on the mast (also marked with black tape) when the reefed main is hauled up tightly again. This will give you a visual indication of proper halyard tensioning without stressing or tearing the luff of the mainsail each time.

I had plastic sail slugs sewn into the luff of the main to allow the main to come down easily and flake nicely on the boom. The old luff rope system was high in friction and just too inconvenient. You had to release the mast luff slot gate each time and dump the sail all over the deck.
An additional slug was also sewn at the end of the foot rope...near the clew. This prevented the foot rope from pulling out at the after end.

As it is, I still have to open the mast luff slot gate to remove the lower two luff slugs whenever reefing.

[This message has been edited by Ken (edited May 04, 2004).]

posted May 04, 2004 04:09 PM            

Does anyone have any good ideas on a removable mast slot "guide"? Our mast has quite an opening, and mast slot guides I've seen for other boats don't look too compatible.