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Author
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Topic: Where are the Sandpiper s565's ?
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terryh JuniorMember
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posted May 02, 2001 12:34 AM
I am curious to find out how far these s565's have sailed ? Where are people sailing ? Myself: Lac St. Louis on the West Island of Montreal. Original sail number 155. I've exchanged e-mails with other s565's in St.John, New Brunswick. But otherwise a rare bunch. How about you ?
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Ken Member
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posted May 07, 2001 01:04 PM
I've had queries and memos from S-565 owners in BC, Alberta, Quebec, Ontario, most recently as far away as Nederlands. Most are from prospective buyers looking for an opinion of this excellent sailboat. Everyone seems to wonder about greasing the centreboard jack-screw. Believe me, it's not difficult and will make your cranking arm a lot happier. Curiously, I've never seen (or painted) my centreboard. It's blocked by a trailer cross-member and so it can only be extended while the boat is in the water.Sailing on lake Ontario from the Toronto Sailing and Canoe Club, I have made two memorable trailer trips to Georgian Bay and the scenic North Channel. My boat was built in '74 and has sail number 134. I have enjoyed sailing "ShortWave" since June '88 By the way; I have a custom-fitted 565 boom tent made of heavy green duck canvas with two large plastic windows, and two opening windows with weather flaps and screens. This tent is fully zippered with snaps for easy attachment, covers the cabin top and cockpit from the mast to the aft end of the boom. It is three years old and has been used only four nights since then. If you are interested, please contact me by email Have a happy and safe sailing season everyone....Ken ------------------ "ShortWave"
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terryh JuniorMember
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posted May 08, 2001 01:20 AM
Great to hear from you Ken! I too have had the pleasure of greasing the acme screw on the keel and you are right,it made a big difference. We had low water conditions here (Montreal) two years ago and everyone I know who sails in the area , scraped bottom and damaged keels and stuff. I managed to repair mine because of decent access on the trailer. I painted my cabin interior last year and my wife is in the process of recovering my cushions, but no one in my family wants to sleep aboard yet. But I will soon enough. As for trailering any serious distance, not yet. Trailer a bit dinky (not original)and mast raising technique needs practice,any Suggestions?. By the way, is your toilet as useless as mine ? Seems no holding tank was part of this design. My boat goes in the water in the next ten days or so. I am dying to try out new mainsail that I splurged on. Good Sailing! Terry.
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Ken Member
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posted May 08, 2001 09:37 AM
Here's my recent exchange with a Dutch sailor about our Sandpiper 565 boats. Please forgive the repetitious nature...I had cut & pasted several old memos to him... ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~From: Manfred J.J. van der Voort To: Ken Sent: Sunday, May 06, 2001 2:01 PM Hi Ken, Finally I took the time to write back to you. Thanks a lot for your extensive email. I put some comments on your text below. Hi Manfred: Lovely to hear from you. Here are some things that I've written about my boat over the past few years. .....My Sandpiper is 5.65 metres long (18-1/2 ft) with a 6 ft beam, so you will not win any races. It is a British design. During the last couple of years I did extensive research on our type of boat. I've found information in an English Sailing Magazine (Sailing Today April 1999), that the Sandpiper 565 has been designed by Leo da Costa. That magazine also learned me that the Sandpiper 565 has a predecessor called Sailfish 18. This boat is still quite populair in the UK and they have an owner association. I grabbed contact information from that same magazine and contacted them. To make a long story short, I came in contact with an owner of the Sailfish 18 form a sailing club in Cambridge, UK, named John Harris. He organizes a the Cam Sailfish Race every year. For more info http://www.cam.net.uk/home/sail/SFWEinf.html John also gave me the name of a guy who had plans to introduce a new model of the Sailfish 18 on the British market. That was important for me to know because I was looking for a new keel. Why a new keel you may think? Well unfortunately the owner before the previous one lost the keel during sailing!! He has never been able to recover it. So he decided to make a standard fixed keel on the Sandpiper. When I bought my boat, I thought it woud be not too difficult to bring it back to its original state. However, remaking a keel identical to its origin without any design drawings (which I hoped to find somewhere), proves to be quite complicated and expensive. So, I had a couple of options: 1) finding an identical boat unusable destined for crap, but with a good keel 2) find a supplier for spare parts 3) find a identical boat still in production, to order a new keel I had found the C&L company some years ago. I probably could buy another keel from them, but the trasport costs would be rather high. Well after investigating all the options I decided to accept the my Sandpiper with a fixed keel and to save the money for my next boat. A new one? Sailing and camping on the Sandpiper with 2 adults during a couple of weeks is becoming a little uncomfortable. But let's first tell somewhat more about my current boat. My boat has been built in Southampton during 1973. At least one another Sandpiper 565 must be sailing here around, because I saw one for sale in the national boat sale directory. My boat is named "Nomads of the wind" based on the title of a British documentary about the Polynesians. I'm living in the middle The Netherlands in the small city of Wageningen. The river Rhine is coming along our city. I started sailing on the Rhine for almost twenty years ago. Nomads of the Wind is my third sailing boat during those years. It's the first with a cockpit. A friend of mine used to sail in the Northern part of our country, the province of Friesland. I accompanied him for years. That province is known as the utmost sailing area from our country. I agree with that. For 3 years ago I got the possibility for a mooring place in Friesland for my own boat. It's a 2 hour drive from where I'm living, but it's worthwhile to drive for a weekend. My girlfriend is sailing with me on the Frisian lakes during the sailing season. Sometimes, I'm sailing on myself or with a friend. We spent our holidays on the boat once every two years. For two years ago, we where staying for 4 weeks on the boat. We have been sailing on the Waddensea, which is our last wilderness in The Netherlands. It's a tidal sea area between our northern islands and the mainland. Sometimes I make a day trip on the Ijsselmeer, which is a former inner sea, but now cutt off by dykes. This year we will visit Denmark and take the Nomads with us. She weighs around 570kg dry, and I estimate 820kg with motor, two fuel tanks, battery and all the gear. I have not confirmed this. Due to the fixed keel Nomads wheight increased significantly. The boat is now about 800 kg with the sailing stuff, but without motor, lines, anchor etc. The weight of boat and trailer behind my car is 1180 kg. It tows on a trailer slowly (80km-hr) with a 15 year-old Pontiac 6000 with a V-6 2.2Lengine. My V-6 2.8L Buick is much happier to tow it. They were made in Ontario by C&L boatworks from 1974-1988, and while no longer in production, all components are still available from C&L here in Ontario Canada. C&L still make CL14 and CL16 sailing dinghies....very competitive racing dinghies in this area. .....She will happily sail with 4 adults and you will not get wet as the boat is very seaworthy and the cockpit is very dry, but 6 in the cockpit would be tight. .....two (friendly) adults with all their gear would be OK for weekends, (the head is situated forward under the V-berth) and I know someone who used to take 2 (small) kids along on overnights but they reported that it was too crowded. There are 2 V-berths and 2 quarter berths but in my opinion you and the children would be too cramped along with your clothes, food and other gear, especially in inclement weather. Having said that, I do have a screened and zippered boom tent which extends the protected living space into the cockpit. Wow, that's what I have thought of to extend the living space. Have you combined this with the spray hood? I spend weekends aboard on Lake Ontario in Toronto with my wife, and I often trail it a few hundred km to vacation on Georgian Bay for 2 weeks by myself, with friends visiting overnight occasionally. I looked for it at our map. It's a big lake to sail on, I noticed. The middle of the Sandpiper cabin has a large centreboard trunk which you would find a real pain for so many passengers. The keel retracts fully so the boat can be easily trailered or even beached but it does intrude into your living space. Also there is no provision for cooking and as I mentioned, the head is in a crappy (pardon the pun) and non-private location. I also looked at the "Sirius" and "Edel 540", perhaps something with a pop-top on the cabin roof (I like that feature) and longer...say 21-23 ft.Here in North America there are many of the McGregor line of trailerable sailboats. One model has water tank ballast and a retractable wooden dagger board keel, and so is quite light for it's size when the tanks are drained for trailering. It is VERY spacious inside. I cannot vouch for it's sailing features. They were being produced in great quantities back in 1988. I've been looking at it for my next boat. They are being imported here. But you have to have a big car to tow it. It's above our standard! I really liked the Edel 540 (a French design made in Canada), last seen listed around $6500, ) as the head was private and there was an alcohol stove. The keels of these types of craft pivot backwards into a trunk under the hull so the floor of the cabin is flat and unemcumbered. The Sandpiper keel cranks straight up into the hull and the housing takes up space in the cabin. A motor of from 4-8 HP is perfect for this size of boat. I have a Johnson "Sailmaster" 8HP long-shaft with an alternator to charge the battery. Almost all these boats require a long-shaft outboard motor. I tilt the motor up when sailing. I paid $5,300 in 1988 with no trailer. They currently list complete with motor and trailer for the same price, from $5,000 - $ $6,000 (lucky me!) However, I have been making major improvements and changes every spring for the past ten years.......so I suppose that I'm now sailing a $10,000 Sandpiper........(still worth $5,300) ......Hmmmmmmm....... Although the Sandpiper 565 was built by C&L from around ' 74 to ' 89, the parts are available from C&L who make other smaller boats like the famous CL16...very popular here in Ontario Canada. My sail number is #134 (Canadian) , and it was built in 1974. If the boat has a wooden gunwale trim it is not very new. Actually that's good. roof. I like that. It gives a GRP boat a little classical look. need refurbishing of the hull. I believe that most Sandpipers predate the osmosis problem so you will probably be OK. of fun on a small budget. It is very safe and virtually untipable, the manual says it will float when full of water and seaworthy...but not a racer! Actually I race once a year (Saturday) and am usually nearly last to finish. Here are some other bits of letters I've written over the years about my Sandpiper. Sandpiper 565 (5.65 Metres long...about 18.5 Ft) Not exactly a speed demon, she is tender at the dock (walking around on her makes it feel tippy) but very stable under way...especially on a beat. She has high cockpit coamings and so your crew stays dry in all but the most extreme conditions. Even when the bow takes on green water, it all runs off amidships and you stay dry, assuming the fore-hatch is well gasketed and battened down properly. She reaches well but runs slowly unless I hoist the asymmetrical DRS spinnaker. Jib sheets are easily handled without a winch...a cam-cleat does the trick OK. The max hull speed is probably 4 or 4-1/2 knots. I don't think it will plane on a broad reach, not for me anyway!!! The sailplan is old fashioned...with a large main, smaller jib. I have a tilting tabernacle for the mast which allows me to crank the mast up and down by myself. This swivelling tabernacle was an option. Hmm, lovely to read. I need the same because I'm sometimes sailing alone and made it myself. When you're sailing the small lakes here, you sometimes need to crank the mast down, to pass a low flex bridge. sag in the forestay and the luff of the jib, making for poor pointing ability upwind. Not like a racer with backstays and luff extrusions. I have installed roller-furling on the forestay....it works well. This is a 3/4 rig so the stays don't go all the way up to the masthead. As there are no inner shrouds, when on an ambitious beat, in medium to high winds, and close hauled, the lee shroud does go a little slack...frightening at first but quite normal due to the bending of the mast. The deck fittings and rig are over-designed and high quality. There is a bow roller, navigation lights, and the battery and gas tanks go in the aft lazarette cabinet. The adjustable motor bracket is standard. It should not require more than about a 6hp long shaft motor to drive it. I got a new Johnson "Sailmaster" long shaft 8hp with alternator in '98 to keep the battery charged. I had to buy the larger motor to get an alternator. The motor weighs 65 lbs.to buy it as an option. So, now I'm able using it with an alternator to charge my battery. I'll use the battery for the navigation light mounted in the mast. jackscrew with removable crank handle. It is flush with the hull when retracted, the hull has two keelsons and can be beached or rested on a tidal mud flat without any tilting problem at all! It draws about, Hmmmm I'm guessing here...3ft? and only 10 inches with keel up. The keel is heavy metal (iron or lead) and fibre-glass I think. Due to it's straight leading edge I would think twice about hitting an underwater rock....Ouch! Damage would occur...but I haven't hit anything in 10 years (except mud).....my depth sounder and careful chart reading keep me out of trouble. The original head is a disgusting dry pottie with a seat, lid and a deck pumpout fitting!!! I cut it out and installed a marine Port-A-Pottie with deck pumpout. Much nicer. It hides under a cushion in the V-berth. There are 4 berths, but really room only for two (friendly) adults and one child to sleep. There are four storage lockers under the berths as well as two nice shelves under the two large side windows, and they hold a lot. There is an anchor locker on deck, and a large opening fore-hatch. A little DC power panel is inside for controlling nav lights, interior lights and accessories...VHF radio, depth , etc. I have one compass mounted on the port bulkhead in the cockpit. The three mooring cleats are very large and strong. The wooden tiller and tilt-up rudder are easily removed for storage at the end of the day. The older boats have a teak rub rail all around the hull and teak safety rails on the coach roof. Later boats may have a plastic rub rail. There is a large centreboard trunk inside the boat, inconvenient at times, but can serve as a table in bad weather. There is no place to cook inside the cabin. By the way, the manual states that there is enough built-in closed-cell foam flotation in the hull to allow the S-565 to float...full of water, gear and crew...without sinking. I haven't tried to do this, but when installing the head, I found a lot of foam at the bow, and also under the cockpit floor and cabin sole. I believe that the last CL Sandpiper-565 was built in Oshawa in 1988. The design is from the UK and meant for sailing in more protected coastal regions or the larger English lakes. My boat is # 134, named "ShortWave" and was built in 1974. I paid $5,300 in 1989 and you will see them listed from $4,500 to 6,500 in Canada. There has not been any sign of osmosis or blistering in my boat's 1974 hull. I have kept it at a swing mooring in the lake for six years and I have coated the bottom with 4 coats of VC-Tar anti-osmosis coating, and then two coats of VC-17 anti-fouling teflon/copper paint every 2-3 years. I cannot comment on the quality of the hulls and osmosis in later S-565 boats. I love my boat, and although it's small for Lake Ontario (Toronto) I can handle it by myself in all conditions..and launch and retrieve it on the trailer by myself too. This is all the boat I need...I'm 54 and often always sail alone or with a novice. This summer I would like to sail around the shore (not straight across the lake) from Toronto to Niagara-on-the-Lake (near Niagara Falls) and back. A trip to Kingston and Prince Edward county would be nice too. for three or maybe four adults in the cockpit, lots of room on deck for kids, full lifelines, pulpit and stern railing. I have sailed this boat hard on a close hauled beat in brisk winds and have NOT been able to wet the rail or even get the windows washed!!!! Here's the URL of the CL Boat shop for advice, parts list and spare parts in North America. http://www.vaxxine.com/clsailboats/ It's very important to grease the keel screw every 2nd year. It looks difficult but it's really easy. On dry land, (as on a trailer) block up the centreboard in the fully retracted position from under the hull. Remove all the stainless screws holding the fiberglass cover onto the centreboard trunk top. Inside there are 4 large pop rivets holding the metal screw plate retainer down. Drill these out. Using the square wrench provided for the purpose, turn the square nut counterclockwise, raising it and the screw out of the lead keel assembly. Raise it as far as possible and grease the jackscrew with waterproof yacht winch grease (get this in the sailboat chandlery). Grease the nut at the bottom, and screw it all home again. I took the opportunity to replace the ball bearing race. You might not have to. The bearing race is readily available from C&L Boatshop. If the screw seems to bind too much when first raising it, either the grease is really dry, (Squirt oil down the shaft) or the screw has been bent from running the boat aground. (hopefully NOT!) I would bet that the screw on your boat is OK...it is a naval bronze jackscrew and very strong....but.....the shape of the keel lends itself to damage if sailed into a rocky shoal at high speed. My keel was very difficult to lower in 1999 so I lubricated it in May 2000. It will be the second lube since buying the boat in 1988...pretty good actually!!! By the way.....after launching...always lower the keel in shallow water at the dock...in case it decides to fall off the boat and go to the bottom......... Well, you heard my story of getting a new one. That's not easy. Best regards to you Ken, and good luck with ShortWave on your sailing trips. Manfred van der Voort ------------------ "ShortWave"
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Ken Member
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posted May 08, 2001 10:05 AM
My '74 Sandpiper came with a disgusting open pot instead of proper head, so here's what I had to do. The Thetford 735 MSD has 2 tanks...an upper fresh water flush supply and a lower vapour-proof holding tank. The model 735 is just about the same height as the v-berth deck. The cushions cover the head when it's not needed. The larger 775MSD has more capacity but is too tall to fit under the cushions and will prevent the comfortable use of the v-berth.
You have to spend time with a power jigsaw to remove the old "Potty" and cut out a space for the MSD head. I carved out the foam, epoxied two cedar cleats on the hull to support the head's base. An additional rectangular hole will give access to the flush-gate handle in front. A soft gasket made of gray waterpipe foam insulation sleeve fills the gap between the head and berth. The sleeve is slit down one side and works well. You also have to carve the foam out under the berth over to the starboard forward corner of the V-berth. Cut a hole there and feed the pump out hose from the head....under the V-berth deck and then up to the boat's foredeck pump out fitting. Research carefully and purchase the pump out deck fitting that matches the threads of the pump out facility in the marina or club that you plan to use. Not all threads are compatible. I had to buy 2 deck fittings until I found one that fit my club's pump adaptor. Make sure that you use the proper reinforced odour-proof head hose and dual stainless clamps at each junction. Also a small diameter vent hose is run from the head to a metal screened vapour vent on the hull near the bow.
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Ken Member
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posted May 08, 2001 10:13 AM
Sorry I forgot to include Thetford's URL http://www.haymanreese.com.au/thetford/marine.htm
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terryh JuniorMember
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posted May 10, 2001 01:04 AM
Thanks for the info. Ken ! My Sandpiper is a '75 or '76 and has the wood trim on top and rub rails.I purchased mine in 1999 (my first sailboat), my wife still thinks I'm nuts to have taken lessons & purchased a boat at 39 yrs. old. I got it off an old timer in Dorval with trailer and 6 hp. Evinrude. Mind you , the interior had been covered in shag carpeting ceiling and walls. But I scraped & painted and it looks better now. But she had no extra's at all. Bare bones. By the way , I'm still interested in the "tilting/swivelling tabernacle" mast raising gizmo. I've run my main halyard thru the anchor roller & one person balancing precariously holding the mast on the way up/down while the other person connects the front shroud. But it's quite the chimpanzee act & I'm usually the one at the top , praying I don't let go & cause thousands in car ,boat Or human damage. There must be a better way, if you or anyone else can suggest or point to a web site with some device that would help, that I could build or buy. Most appreciated. TERRY.
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Ken Member
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posted May 12, 2001 12:55 AM
The Nov/Dec 2000 issue (Page 42) of "Good Old Boat" has a picture of a single-handed mast raising system using a gin-pole fastened at 90 degrees to the bottom of the mast, with a port & stbd stabilizing bridle to steady both the mast & gin-pole during the operation. I have a wishbone shaped steadying strut device, which straddles the deck, each leg pivoting in a temporary hinge near the shroud U-bolt fitting on deck. The long line to raise the mast is run from a winch on the left coach house, forward, under the bow roller, and back to the top of the wishbone strut. To the top of the is connected this line with a shackle. Another shackle connects this point on the wishbone to the mast's forestay. I crank on the winch, and the whole thing goes up with very little effort (or risk) to anyone. When the mast is vertical, I secure the line at the winch on a cleat and then go forward to clip the forestay turnbuckle to the hole in the bow casting. I will email a scanned drawing of my mast raising system to anyone who requests it. Email me at skipper565@hotmail.com I just discovered "Good Old Boat" magazine in February and now I read it totally from cover to cover. They have an excellent website and can ship back issues. I got all the issues for 99, and 2000. Seems to be the same publishers as "Gam"....Karen Larsen www.goodoldboat.com ------------------ "ShortWave"
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