posted June 19, 2003 03:28 PM            

Here are some of the modifications and improvements that have been completed:

2002 - New six-inch thick cushions inside along with a filler pad, making a large convertible, comfortable double bed
2002 - Thetford MSD-735 head (12 L holding tank) installed with vent and smooth pumpout hose to a metal deck fitting.
2002 - New deep-discharge marine battery, a proper big one...(not the tire store type)
The battery can be charged from the outboard's alternator, a DC power supply (also powering the "Coolatron" fridge, or a 15x15 " glass solar panel (available in the Canadian Tire automotive section)
2002 - New jib sheet
2001 - All cleats, stanchions and other deck hardware removed and re-bedded with 3M 5200 sealant, using large backing plates, stainless washers, lock washers and nuts. Our gear and bedding remain dry in rough or wet weather as there are no pesky deck leaks!
2000 - All wiring replaced or modified for interior lighting, cigar lighter DC convenience outlets. Ample branch circuit fusing and an inexpensive digital multimeter glued to the bulkhead as a battery voltage monitor. The main battery feed wires are heavily fused with automotive type in-line rubber fuse holders utilizing plastic GM-style fuses. These fuses and holders are available in the tire store's automotive lighting section. Master DC marine-type power switch. Two interior lights and a red cockpit light. The original cabin light is over the V-berth. I installed a second dual bulb lighting fixture beside the VHF radio. This light is switch-selectable to offer either white or soft red illumination to preserve your night vision when consulting a chart (or looking for peanut butter cups.)
2000 - Masthead Green/Red navigation-light and a white steaming light at the mast spreaders; new white stern light on railing. Original deck-mounted navigation lights may be switch-selected.
2000 - Windex light at masthead (it's now easy to view the Windex when night sailing)
1999 - New standing rigging and spreaders, shroud turnbuckles fully toggled, all rigging has split-ring retainers (no cotter pins!)
1998 - 8hp Johnson Sailmaster (1998) long-shaft outboard equipped with 6 amp alternator....a motor that cold-starts on the second pull is a wonderful thing!
1998 - Two plastic quick-change fuel tanks, 22 and 11.35 Litres, plus a small jerry can for extended range. I've engraved the 2-stroke oil mix dosage on each tank to prevent over oiling during fillups.
1995 - Dual-spring motor bracket, three laminated padlocks and a Kryptonite-style steel tether help to discourage motor theft
1993 - Lazarette (Beckson soft and flexible) vent scoops (screened for insects) to aid in ventilation of the inevitable battery and fuel fumes. The port side scoop faces forward for fresh air intake, the starboard rear-facing exhaust scoop has a 4" diameter flexible plastic dryer duct which is snaked down to the bottom of the lazarette to help collect the heavier vapours
1993 - Digital display depth sounder from Radio Shack, installed with a thru-hull transducer. (Drilling a large hole in the boat's bottom was quite traumatic!) The depth sounder cabling allows it to be brought out into the cockpit for easy viewing from the helm position

Cabin lockers are kept fresh with four large stainless louvered vents
- Pulpit and stern rail with single vinyl covered lifelines, two pelican hooks serve as gates
- VHF radio has a masthead antenna. A small external lapel-type speaker (Radio Shack) extends out into the cockpit for easier monitoring while under way
- All mast electrical connections enter the cabin roof beside the mast via a waterproof deck connector. The VHF coax passes through the deck via a metal and rubber gland.
- Beckson stainless cabin ventilator which stays open winter and summer
- Louvered and screened vent on companionway boards
- Non-skid padding was glued to the areas on the cabin roof on either side of the mast, the cockpit coamings and top of centreboard trunk
- 9 Lb Delta anchor with 225 ft nylon rode and 18 ft of chain. Anchor, chain and rode will all fit inside the self-draining anchor locker
- 7 Lb Danforth anchor in lazarette as a spare.
- 18 Lb folding fisherman's anchor in lazarette for exceptionally weedy anchorages (Prinyer's Cove near Picton)
- Main halyard winch & handle at cockpit. This winch is also utilized in the mast stepping system
- Mainsail halyard, topping lift, boom vang, and continuous jib furling lines led aft to cockpit
- Two fire extinguishers, one in cabin and another in the lazarette
- Illuminated Plastimo "Mini-Contest" bulkhead compass with inclinometer and compass cover (Prolonged exposure to sunlight purportedly darkens compass card damping fluid)
- Three (long) docklines. In addition I use really long retired main and jib sheets as dock springs
- Permanent "Whale Gusher" bilge pump for lazarette
- Anchor and lazarette hatches are secured with fine stainless tethers (hatches don't float)
- Boat hook on soft rubber clips under port side shelves
- Whisker pole clipped under starboard shelves
- Swim ladder (rigid aluminum) which hooks into keyhole fittings on starboard coaming
- Oversized fenders
- Cockpit cushions...dark blue vinyl covered
- Hatch screens (Velcro)
- Forehatch has a coil spring to prop it open for fresh air
- Forehatch tent from Genco
- Two paddles
- Flare kit in a bright yellow plastic toolbox. Also in this box is a mirror, spare whistle and an emergency VHF whip antenna in case the masthead antenna fails
- Windex at masthead (illuminated)
- Man overboard pole with flag
- Freon powered signalling horn
- Plastic foghorn, manually operated "Brother it's LOUD!"
- Heaving line bag on stern rail with 15 M of floating line
- Flag halyard on starboard spreader
- Full spares for fuses, lamps, outboard spark plugs and shear pins
- Allen key to remove stanchions and pulpit
- Keel bolt crank handle

The boat's original factory bottom was de-waxed, prepped, and barrier-coated in 1990 with 5 coats of VC-Tar. It has been protected with VC-17 anti-fouling since then. There is no blistering.
The hull's blue topsides were painted in 1990 with dark blue Interlux Brightside polyurethane, original white gelcoat on deck. The bootstripe is repainted red every spring.
The rub rails, cabin handholds and other brightwork have been scuffed with bronze wool, then treated with two or three coats of Cetol-M each season.

ShortWave has single jiffy reefing on the main, a furling jib, and an asymmetrical drifter-reacher (DRS) which does not require a spinnaker. There's a dousing bag for easy deployment.
The mainsail is protected by a matching dark blue boom cover with "ShortWave" monigrammed in large white letters on both sides.

A removable "wishbone" strut and pivoting mast tabernacle make mast stepping a one person job while still on the trailer using the cockpit winch. This works well, even in a cross-wind. I always do the job while the boat's on the trailer. Stepping a mast while on the water can easily result in losing pins, cotter rings, clevises and other $$ parts. (Plink-splash!!!)

ShortWave has a dark blue, single axle road trailer with heavy upgraded axle, bearings, "Bearing Buddies" and 15" wheels plus a new spare. The trailer's tongue was lengthened by three feet to facilitate launching without drowning the tow vehicle. Non-skid tread pads were glued along the top of the tongue to aid my footing while launching or retreiving the boat. The pads are bright white to make them more visible when the tongue's under water at the launch ramp. The tongue is easily removable for more compact storage.
The trailer has eight articulated rollers to support the stern, with rollers under the keel. There are two long (removeable) vertical guides to centre the boat over the trailer when hauling it out. A crank-up tongue jack and dolly-wheel supports the front of the trailer.
We use a large heavy-duty (silver-coloured pool-type cover material) for protection in winter . It covers the boat and trailer right down to the wheels. The mast has a canvas winter cover made up by Fogh. I bungee the covered mast to the pulpit and stern rail, forming a ridge pole for the cover. A small old trailer tire is slipped over the tabernacle for padding. The masthead assembly is protected by two anti-freeze jugs which were cut to fit over the nav-light and antenna coil. The cockpit is "webbed" with spare lines to help support the cover in that area and prevent water, snow and ice from pooling on the cover.

I always store my outboard indoors in a heated space after changing the gearcase oil and fogging the cylinders. Any gas remaining in the fuel tanks is treated with a dose of gas preservative.

The battery however is stored in a protected bbut cold space. I regularly maintain the electrolyte levels, top up the charge every month or so all winter, and closely monitor and record each cell's specific gravity and total battery voltage on a card posted beside the battery.
In my view a lead-acid battery which is stored at cool/cold temperatures, and monitored and maintained all winter will have a much longer life than one which is kept in a warm environment beside the furnace on a wooden board (theoretically to prevent discharge?) http://uuhome.de/william.darden/storage.htm

Here's a list of all of my CL Sandpiper contributions to date. http://www.vaxxine.com/clsailboats/cgi-bin/search.cgi

Shortwave is equiped per the LORC racing requirements. Let's double-hand her in the Lake Ontario 300 next June. It may take us a week and a half to complete but with a PHRF rating of 200+, we could stand a chance to place well.

posted June 24, 2003 07:47 PM            

I'm looking to see if you (or anyone else) have made mast gates, to fill the expanded opening of the mast, so when you reef, the track stop doesn't go flying overboard. Would love to do away with this little expensive-for-what-you-get piece!

I've seen other masts that are more of a flatter opening but the the Sandpiper mast is different than others. Still other people have fashioned gates out of alumminum carpet bullnose trim.

Any specific ideas welcomed, before I go to Home Depot and buy carpet trims to experiment with!

Cheers, Eric

posted June 25, 2003 03:45 PM            

Holland Marine page 332

http://www.hollandmarine.com/hmp/Catalog/CATALOGU1.pdf

I have also drilled the mast track just above the wide part of the slot and inserted a 1/8 inch dia cotter pin. It's tethered by a piece of thin stainless steel cable to a screw in the mast to prevent cotter pin loss overboard. The pin has a small bump or crimp in it made by putting it into a vice with a 1/6 drill bit inserted between the legs of the cotter pin. This bump helps to retain it in the mast holes.
I'll make a drawing of this in "windows paint" and post the url on my Shutterfly boat pix site.