posted January 19, 2003 07:44 PM            

I think the solution to this problem lies in the existance of a disc at the top of the jib that keeps the jib and the permanent forestay from fouling each other. Mine consists of a 4" disc of 1/2" thick polypropylene. A hole is drilled through the centre and a Harken dinghy swivel fitted through the hole(a snug fit). One side of the swivel attaches to the halyard that you use to hoist the jib, the other end of the swivel attaches to the cable in the jib luff that replaces the forstay. At the bottom of the jib luff I have a Harken furling drum that is attached to the rear hole in the bow deck plate. It probably goes without saying but the permanent forestay is attached to the forward hole in the bow deck plate at the bottom and to the forestay tang on the mast at the top.

The line from the furling drum runs through an opening I drilled in the deck right beside the bow deck plate which I finished with a through deck bushing. It then runs aft coming into the cockpit very low down(close to the floor of the boat)and well over to the port side(the side is optional) It runs under the front leg of the seat and then up between the seat boards just forward of the thwart where it runs into a jam cleat.

This all sounds far more complicated that it is but it allows me to furl the jib very easily if I'm single handing without crawling all over the cockpit.

Having written all of this I just noticed that it's all pretty well explained in the CL16 manual using different gear but the same principle.

Hope some of this helps.