I'm back from a very successful trip in N.S. Overall I am extremely pleased with all modifications I've done to Celtic Kiss.

The biggest improvement was installing a single-line reefing system. I was asked to give some specs of the project and now I finally have an opportunity to share them with you. After installing the system I took measurements but unfortunately I can't find that sheet of paper I wrote them on so I'll have to go by memory.

First of all, when I did the project the boat was on the trailer with the mainsail hoisted. This gave me a better feel for the rig as the project unfolded.

** All imperial measurements are taken from the front of the end-cap on the boom.

A deck cleat is pop-riveted (Glad I listened to you guys) to the mast (starboard side) a few inches below the horn-cleat for the jib halyard. From there the reefing line is run upward to what I will call the reef tack. (A line is also placed here so I can tie the reef tack snug to the mast.) From there the reefing line goes down to a cheek-block (port side) that is located 2.5 inches behind the front end-cap of the boom. At this point the line is run back to another cheek-block (port-side of boom) to a point 105 inches aft of the front end-cap of the boom. From this 2nd cheek block, the line then takes an upward turn to the reef clew(aft reefing point) where it then takes a turn downward to an awaiting deck cleat (starboard side) that is roughly 108 inches behind the front end-cap of the boom. At the aft edge of the sail the reefing line should pull the sail downward and AFT. At this point the line then runs forward to a cam cleat that is positioned at approximately 92 inches behind the front end-cap of the boom.

At this point I thought I was done, but during sea trials I learned that it would be more efficient if I put a second cam cleat near the front of the boom. I had to be up by the mast anyway to lower to main halyard and thought it made sense to have the reefing line forward with me. Therefore, I put a second cam cleat 28 inches behind the forward end-cap of the boom. This enables me to simultaneously control the main halyard with my right hand and the reefing line with my left hand. Considering the strain involved, I think it better for two aluminum cam cleats to share the load rather than rely on a single cleat.

With this system I can heave-to and have the mainsail reefed in less than 30 seconds.

If you decide to do this to your boat please note that my measurements are not written in stone. I stongly suggest that you have your boat on land, hoist the mainsail and then go from there. When I actually did the work, I eyeballed everything. This was a surprisingly long job but the dividends have already begun to pay off.

A topping lift is also used to help prevent the boom from falling into the cockpit. It is important to note that the clip on the mast and boom are both on the starboard side. This prevents the line from interfering with the leech of the sail.

The hardware I attached to the boom and mast are stainless. As a measure to combat rusting between dissimilar metals, I painted the SS hardware, with Tremclad rust paint, at the points it would come into contact with the aluminum boom and pop-rivets.

Robert
Celtic Kiss #2120

That icon should be a Really BIG SMILE not a Frowny face
[This message has been edited by Celtic Kiss (edited December 14, 2002).]

I'm glad to hear that everything is going so well for you. I was hoping to get some cross-country skiing in but there's no snow yet. (Alberta) Now that I've done my snow sailing in N.S. I'd like to try sailing in Florida.

Since you're at a sailing school, can you take a look at different rudder designs that can be implemented on the CL 16? I've been thinking of a design and then found it on the Cdn Wayfarer site last night.
http://www.angelfire.com/de2/WIT/ruddersetup.html

I'd like for my rudder to have more bite in the water and not be angled back so much. I haven't figured out any dimensions yet but I'd be interested to know what others on the board and your fellow sailing instructors think.

Fair Winds and Merry Christmas if I don't hear from you before the BIG DAY. My dream is to sail on Christmas Day and one of these years it'll happen, even if it's in an iceboat.

If you do not already have reefing points in your sail, have it done by a professional sailmaker. I had to ship mine to Vancouver a few years ago to have them done and I think it cost about $100 Cdn. It turned out to be a great investment as it extended my sailing well beyond "fair weather days".

Yes, The sail shop will know exactly where to put the reefing points. I have a single set in which seems to be quite adequate for my needs.

Word of caution.

When I had my sails done, the my local CL dealership took care of the whole thing. Thus they were able to send the sails to a sailmaker who had a pre-set pattern to work with. If I were you, I'd either go through the CL dealership or call various sailmakers to make sure they can do the job. This same scenario also applies to boatcovers. So long as they have a pre-set pattern to work with there won't be a problem.