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  Replaced trailer bearings--what a time!!!!

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Author Topic:   Replaced trailer bearings--what a time!!!!
dickwholliday
Member
posted June 05, 2002 10:05 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for dickwholliday   Click Here to Email dickwholliday     
my trailer is an 81 model which i guess had the original bearings in it and since i just got it i didn not know what shape the bearings were in...not knowing about bearings i decided to put bearing buddies on them to keep from having to take them out to grease them....rather than going to a big Walmart type marine store i went to a place that just sold trailers and parts....i guess i was hoping to get some advice as well as parts....well, the guy told me to spin them and see what they sounded like....you guessed it-----a roaring sound rather than a smooth ZZZZZZZZ. i went back and got bearings, bearing buddies, grease gun and grease......the first one took a couple of hours as i had to beat out the old races with a brass rod i had plus call a buddy that had experience with such things....the second one took about 45 min.....the old bearings were rusty and pitted and i now have a warm and cozy feeling about towing my 14 and hopefully if i end up beside the road it will be because one of my old tires gave up rather than a bearing locked up.......Dick


Celtic Kiss
unregistered
posted June 06, 2002 01:14 AM           
Dick;

This is a job I'll have to tackle someday and dread the thought because I've never done it before. Would it be possible for you to write out a step-by-step guide for replacing the bearings?

Robert
Celtic Kiss #2120


Eric
Member
posted June 06, 2002 07:25 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Eric   Click Here to Email Eric     
Bearings are a much forgotten maintenance item for many.
I commute up and down the 400(Barrie -Concord) and I see alot of trailers on the side of the road missing wheels. Once one such wheel broke off a small motor boaters trailer bounced over the median and was coming straight for me in the centre lane! Luckily it was at an off peak time and I could avoid the wheel, but it hit the car behind me who later pulled over. I'm sure any fault for an accident would be placed on the trailer owner.
Remember to annually check your bearings and re-pack them with fresh grease. Lubrication breakdown will lead to bearing failure.
A good spare tire is good to have as well.
Good job Dick, and fair winds to you.
Cheers, Eric


dickwholliday
Member
posted June 07, 2002 11:44 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for dickwholliday   Click Here to Email dickwholliday     
Here's how i did it--i'm sure some old pro will read this and maybe refine it some but here goes---first jack up the trailer and give the wheel a good spin--if it sounds pretty quiet and doesn't have a lot of side to side movement in it when you grab the tire and push and pull on each side--then your bearings may be ok--if your grease is not a nice red or green color--you may have had water in the hub and then the bearings and grease should definitely be removed and cleaned in gasoline or something similar...my grease was brown and my bearings were pitted........

OK then let's assume the worst and the bearings need to be replaced--here's what i did--after taking of the hub cover and pulling out the cotter key and unscrewing the big nut.......slide the hub off the axle...the front bearing should fall out.....i took a piece of wooden closet pole and drove out the rear seal and bearing from the outside end of the hub.....it will be full of grease and crap so wipe it out with a rag or paper towel...by the way this job is towel and rag intensive-plus i managed to get enough grease on my pants to pretty much ruin them for any purpose except this or painting from now on........After cleaning the inside of the hub you'll notice that the part of the bearing called the race is still inside the hub....they are pressed in and getting them out is the worst part of this job....what i did was to use a brass rod i had and drove each of them out from the opposite side.....you'll notice that the race is tapered with the big end of the taper toward the outside of each side of the hub...that's why the bearings just fell out when you took off the hub......the way i got the races out is to take my rod and a hammer and tap them out from the other side...i just would pop it with the hammer as i moved the rod around the inside edge of the races....it's sort of slow going and you'll probably get more aggresive with the hammer after you see them start to move......after you have them out, finish cleaning the inside the hub and put some grease on the area where the new races are going and install the new races the opposite of the way you took out the old ones....it's slow going also but keep tapping them until they are seated flush against the flange inside the hub.....

you are ready to install the new bearings now.....but before you install them you need to pack them with grease...the way i was shown to do this is like this---put some grease in your hand and sort of push the edges of the bearing into it intil you see grease start to come out the other side....i did the back bearing first and pushed it into the new race and then installed the new rear seal by taping it in flush with the edge of the hub with my small hammer and a board on it to keep from messing it up....then slide the hub back on the axle and install the packed outer bearing then the big washer and the big nut....i then snugged it up with a big wrench (But not too tight-you may damage the bearing) then back off the nut just enough for the hole in the axle to line up with the slots in the big nut and install the new cotter pin....spin the wheel to make sure it spins freely.....

i put Bearing Buddies on mine because the you can add grease to the bearings without having to take them apart like we just did....a Bearing Buddie has a grease fitting in the middle of it which is pushed back toward the hub by a spring in it......When you get the B Buddies knocked into the hub (they replace the hub cover we took off earlier) hook your grease gun to it and pump grease in it until you see the spring loaded grease fitting thing start to tighten up the spring because the hub is full of grease (it will take quite a bit of grease)....a pal told me today that if you put too much grease in the hub that it will ruin the rear grease seal that you just replaced in the back of the hub--so just pump in grease until you see the spring loaded thing back up just a little.....

Well from the above you can tell that i'm definitely not one to write a manual on anything but this job was really quite fun and i feel good about having done it myself......Dick

malamute
unregistered
posted June 08, 2002 12:06 AM           
For easy reassembly....try this old mechanics trick I was taught. Put your bearings in the freezer and your hubs in the hot sun. Bearings shrink....hubs expand. Usually they will drop right in....very little tapping involved.


Celtic Kiss
unregistered
posted June 08, 2002 12:35 AM           
Dick;

Thanks for the info. It's something I'll definitely keep in the memory banks.

Robert
Celtic Kiss 2120


CL16-2695
Member
posted June 09, 2002 08:26 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for CL16-2695   Click Here to Email CL16-2695     
Here's a suggestion for those old tires of yours... mine, like most I guess, were tubeless but since they sit for long periods of time without moving that can be pretty hard on them and can weaken the seal between the tire bead and the rim. I had tubes installed and have never had a flat. As noted in an earlier posting though the best protection is to carry a spare... I guess that's just 'safe trailering' right?


dickwholliday
Member
posted June 09, 2002 07:21 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for dickwholliday   Click Here to Email dickwholliday     
my tires hold air OK but i see splits in the sidewalls....i've got two spares however....i probably should just replace them and put tubes in the best of the others.....what do you think????? Dick


Celtic Kiss
unregistered
posted June 10, 2002 01:29 AM           

A slogan I read at my flight training school was "If you think safety is expensive, try an accident" I'd replace the tires and save myself from future inconvienences.

Robert
Celtic Kiss #2120


CL16-2695
Member
posted June 10, 2002 10:47 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for CL16-2695   Click Here to Email CL16-2695     
I'd replace the tires if you are seeing cracking... but go for the tubes for the added safety as well... not much additional expense but a lot more peace of mind.


Ken
Member
posted June 18, 2002 11:30 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Ken   Click Here to Email Ken     
A few things I've learned when hauling boat trailers.

This assumes that you have "Bearing Buddies" installed.
Always top up the grease before a trip. Use waterproof wheel bearing grease in a quick-load cartridge gun. (Canadian-Tire)
Take the grease gun with you in a double plastic bag and plenty of extra bags and paper towels for side-of-the-road cleanup.
Allow bearings to cool before immersing the axle in cool lake water.
Grease them again after launch, you'll be surprised how much water is expelled!

Disconnect the trailer lighting connector before immersing the trailer. The hot bulbs will be happier. Observe the water pouring from "sealed" trailer lamp housings after launch. When replacing bulbs, liberally smear the bottom contacts with white grease.

To prevent accidental separation I insert a hairpin shaped clevis pin into the safety hole on the hitch latch where a padlock could go.

Try to find a garage who will balance your trailer wheels. The lack of vibration and extra tire life makes trailering less "eventful."

Carry a spare wheel. My brother once toured most of New Mexico looking for an odd sized wheel to fit his trailer.

Replace the steel trailer winch cable with the flat black fabric winch strap and hook especially made for this purpose. (CTC)
The strap will not corrode and lies flat on the reel. Ditch that (temporary) yellow polyprop winch line, it will degrade in UV and is hard on the hands.

Finally, strips of white anti-skid tape on the fenders will give your bare feet better grip. Also put some along the top of the trailer tongue for walking out on it (under water) to release the trailer winch hook.

------------------
"Drop a load of gurry overboard on Tuesday and it'll still be wit ye on Saturday"


Eric
Member
posted June 20, 2002 11:36 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Eric   Click Here to Email Eric     
On the topic of trailers, wheels etc., is it permissable to use passenger car tires on a boat trailer.
My tires are looking sad and I have a pair take offs from my car that are in good shape and I thought I might be able to use them?
Comments?

cheers, Eric

Ken
Member
posted June 20, 2002 02:33 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Ken   Click Here to Email Ken     
I'd suppose that if the load rating of your auto tires are high enough and the treads are OK you could do it.
Any mechanics out there with an educated opinion?

------------------
"Drop a load of gurry overboard on Tuesday and it'll still be wit ye on Saturday"


Celtic Kiss
unregistered
posted June 20, 2002 10:20 PM           
I see no problem using car tires on a boat trailer so long as they're in good shape. One thing about all these so called experts is that they'll try to sell you anything. A few years ago I replaced the front tire on my pick-up truck. The "expert" told me I could get a cheaper tire that would only be good for city driving. I could only afford a cheap tire and ironically enough, I rode the "city tire" across Canada with absolutely no signs of wear on the tire.

Robert
Celtic Kiss #2120


SuperPiper
unregistered
posted July 15, 2002 05:58 PM           
The theory is that radial tires will allow the trailer to rock-n-roll. The bias-ply tires have more stable sidewalls.

I had a 17foot house trailer on radials and I would have agreed with the theory. It was critical to put the beer and the tool box at the front or the trailer would fishtail like a demon.

However, the load on my boat trailer is so far forward that it follows like a cheap date. I have run both radial and bias-ply. The problem with my current set of bias-ply is that they have a higher sidewall, are larger in diameter, and rub on the inside of my fenders.

So, I have no recommendations one way or t'other.

dickwholliday
Member
posted July 17, 2002 05:15 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for dickwholliday   Click Here to Email dickwholliday     
Darnit---Wish i had read this yesterday....just bought 2 new wheels and tires....the only thing i looked at was to see that they had 5 holes instead of 4 in the rims......if i'd read all this i'd have had something else to worry about.....Dick

Oh by the way---when i changed the rims and tires when i got home i noticed the inside of one of the rims had bunches of my new wheel bearing grease that looked like it was slung out of the bearing....glad i pumped some more in it this morning......i guess i may have over filled when i put in the new bearings and grease???????

[This message has been edited by dickwholliday (edited July 17, 2002).]

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