What I have done is attach mudflaps to the cross-braces of my trailer. I used 1/4 inch rubber (Like what they use for conveyor belts) and bolted them onto the three cross braces. The advantages to this are 1) There isn't a temptation to step on flimsy plywood
2) There isn't a surface for the rushing air to turn the plywood rock-guard into a wing.
and 3) its cheap!!!

In 2000 I put this design to the supreme test. I towed my CL from Alberta to Nova Scotia a distance of 5500 km. As it turns out the design worked perfectly and towing features of the trailer were not compromised. During this trip I dealt with dirt roads, fresh oil, and the regular highway. The oil kind of concerned me but I am pleased to report that after my cross Canada trip, the underhull of the boat was spotless. The only other thing I would have done is lengthen the mudflaps on the fenders of the trailer.

An added bonus of the mudflaps is that you can place safety tape on the rear flap to get the attention of drivers behind you.

For a lengthy trip like mine I also decided to take the tail lights and licence plate from the trailer, bolt them onto a 2x6 and re-route the wires.The advantage to that are these: The drivers behind you can see you better 2) you never submerge your lights or wires. 3) I use a chain and turnbuckle combination on each end of the 2x6 to hold it in place on the gunwale. If done properly, your boat isn't going anywhere, even when the big semi's go zipping at Mach 2 giving off a lot of turbulence. (But that's another story)

To make the trailer look a bit "classier" I went to Canadian Tire, got some peel-off stickers spelling the boats name and placed them on either side of the trailer tongue. I then coated the stickers with varathane to protect them. This measure is moreso cosmetic but it also makes it easier to identify your trailer. As an added bonus, the stickers glow in the dark.

Happy Trailering to one and all

Robert
Celtic Kiss #2120

My trailer is an Algonquin model and can't remember the weight capacity of it. All that info is in NS right now and I am in Alberta at the moment.

A word about weight capacity. I remember I had a discussion with the CL dealer here in Calgary and he informed me that it's not a good idea to have a trailer that is too heavy for the boat. Reason being is that when your travelling, though the trailer may not be getting bumped around on the road your boat may be getting a ride that you don't know about until its too late.

Another important point he mentioned to me is that when you secure the mast you have two options. Either have the mast secured to the trailer on both ends or to the boat at both ends. Reason being is that if you secure one end to the trailer and one end to the boat and if the boat shifts on the trailer you'll have a bent mast. Did you ever notice how your boat will shift on the trailer while being towed. Imagine that shift happening with your mast. There would be so much torque that something would have to give. Guess what's going to give?

My trailer has two tilting 2x4's for bunks.
unning length wise with the trailer. They are 2 feet in length and of course carpeted. Most of the weight rests on the keel. They are on port and starboard. The tires are 12" with no bearing buddies.

As well my trailer does not tilt. (No preference here it is just what happened to be with the boat)

One other thing I plan to add to my trailer is a jack at the front. Those make it so much easier to move the boat around.

I'll look into the "cradle ride trailer" you mentioned and I'll get back to you.

I checked out the Abbot boat site and found the trailer you mentioned. It looks good as I think the cradle design will better support your boat. If I had any carpentry skill I'd build one for myself.

I notice that it comes equipped with a mast support. Personally I wouldn't use it. For even if the boat doesn't shift while driving, the mast is still flexing at every bump in the road, and any other vibration.

Robert

I've given a lot of thought to how to deal with the mast and came up with the following solution (for what it's worth):

I constructed a "temporary" mast out of some 3" diameter scrap aluminum tubing I happened to have (You could easily use a piece of wood as well). It's about four feet high and the same diameter as the original mast. It sets in the tabernacle at the bottom and has a u-shaped crutch at the top (to support the forward end of the real mast). I secured this temporary mast with a short set of shrouds (port, starboard, and a forestay. The whole thing basically looks like a minature mast with a crutch at the top.

I cut a key-hole in this temporary mast to accept the gooseneck fitting from the boom (at the normal boom height). This lets me store the boat directly on the trailer with the real boom in place but attached to the minature mast. This allows my canvas cover to fit on the boat and stay on for storage and trailering.

At the stern, I constructed a short mast crutch (also about four feet high) that fits into the rudder gudgeon and pintle. The top of the stern crutch is also u-shaped and holds the rear of the mast. By making this crutch out of two pieces of wood attached with bolts in slotted holes, I can adjust the angle of the horizontal mast (resting on the crutches) relative to the boat/trailer. By adjusting the stern height I can raise or lower the front end of the mast to clear the roof of my truck.

The other benefit of this set-up is that I can throw a tarp over the horizontal mast which sheds snow and ice better than the canvas cover. It doesn't matter if the boat is on the trailer, off the trailer, in the water, setting on blocks- everything attaches to the boat so I don't have to change anything.

Hope this helps...

Welcome to the board and thanks for the input. I like your idea, but I have only one concern. You mention that you placed a mast crutch that fits into the pintle and gudgeon. My concern with that is when you're towing and go over a bump etc. the sudden downward pressure exerted by the mast might be a bit too much for the bolts holding the pintle and gudgeon to the hull. (Snap)

I'll tell you a little story about rig pressures when towing. During my trip I travelled through Wisconsin. The truckers there are speed demons. On many occasion they would zip by me at breakneck speed leaving a lot of turbulence in their wake. On one particular occasion I saw this semi coming up behind me in the passing lane. Knowing that his rig would give off a lot of turbulence I braced for it. When he passed me, the "bow-wave" rocked my camper from side to side, and ball cap was blown-off. The ball cap went flying out the PASSENGER WINDOW. (So if your ever driving through Northern Wisconsin and see a navy blue ball cap that says "Molson Canadian" on it, it's mine)

After that experience I pulled into the nearest rest-stop to check my rig and regain my composure.

For storage purposes, placing the tarp over your rig is an excellent idea. But after my experience I would re-think towing with that design.

MY SOLUTIONS: For my trip I secured the mast to the top of the camper. It was out of the way and didn't budge. I also put a red flag on it so the truckers could see it. For short trips I place the mast along the boat and use those styrofoam swimming tubes for chafing gear. With a sharp knife you can customize them. They are especially handy for filling in that little "V" on the splashboard.

Robert
Celtic Kiss #2120

I agree completely with the need to take the tarp off for towing (it's about as much area as a sail and I know how much drag that would create at 60mph). I would tend to think that the canvas cover would be ok to leave on for towing, though. Any thoughts on that?

Your comment about the possible force on the pintle/gudgeon makes sense. Thanks. When I get a free minute I think I'll make some sort of padded hook to fit over the transom instead of the gudgeon. I'm guessing that if the weight of the mast at the stern was carried by the transom I could use the lower pintle simply to keep the crutch from moving side-to-side. Any thoughts?

Towing while tarped: I towed my CL 16 across North America while tarped. There are a few considerations I focused on. 1) Keep it snug (and I mean snug) so it doesn't flap in the wind. Otherwise your boat cover becomes a rag. 2) Allow for drainage, surprisingly enough the puddles of water won't blow away!! 3) If there is even the remotest chance of something on the tarp to rub against the gelcoat IT WILL !! IE (a grommet or those wooden dowels on the side of the tarp that go around the shrouds) The dowels were my nemesis. At first I thought of tying a rag around the culprits but after travelling the rags would either become dislodged or blow off. So I resorted to the handy-man's secret weapon, duct tape. "If the women don't find you handsome they should at least find ya handy"

DOCKING RINGS: I installed mine a few years ago and it was probably the single most important upgrade to the boat. Don't forget to put a sealer around the shaft of the dock-ring as well as the inside of the pre-drilled hole. My backing plates are 1" thick pieces of plywood and are as wide as I could get. The bolt of the dock-ring goes through the backing plate. I also put an epoxy on the plate to secure it to the underside of the deck. On the bolt itself I used some oversized washers and double -nutted them into place. You need only tighten them enough unit the washer starts to make an imprint into the wooden backing plate. It probably wouldn't hurt to ping them either. Rainwater always wants to take refuge in my boat so seal it up as best you can. I use them strictly for docklines.

For holding the boat onto the trailer, I prefer to use the 2 X 6 chained down for towing. (See above post). Personally I don't know how strong the fibreglass is at the gunwale area. What would have happened to my boat if I didn't have the 2 X 6 to take the sudden stresses I faced in Wisconsin? With my luck the fibreglass would've torn out leaving two gaping holes. The 2 X 6 also secures the back half of the tarp in place.

Have either one of you installed a compass in your boat?

quote:

---

Originally posted by Celtic Kiss:

The hanging hook idea sounds feasible and the use of the lower pintle for sway support sounds good too. Just keep in mind that it is best not to have too much weight on the boat's fittings. (If you have a picture, that would certainly help. You can either contact Cody (webmaster) to post it or send it to my e-mail address so I can take a look)

Towing while tarped: I towed my CL 16 across North America while tarped. There are a few considerations I focused on. 1) Keep it snug (and I mean snug) so it doesn't flap in the wind. Otherwise your boat cover becomes a rag. 2) Allow for drainage, surprisingly enough the puddles of water won't blow away!! 3) If there is even the remotest chance of something on the tarp to rub against the gelcoat IT WILL !! IE (a grommet or those wooden dowels on the side of the tarp that go around the shrouds) The dowels were my nemesis. At first I thought of tying a rag around the culprits but after travelling the rags would either become dislodged or blow off. So I resorted to the handy-man's secret weapon, duct tape. "If the women don't find you handsome they should at least find ya handy"

STERN CLEATS: I installed mine (port and starboard) a few years ago and it was probably the single most important upgrade to the boat. Don't forget to put a sealer around the dock-ring. Rainwater always wants to take refuge in my boat. For backing plates, I used 1" thick chunks of plywood and double-nutted the bolts. I still sometimes find that the nuts vibrate and loosen a bit so I plan the ping the bolt (beat the crap out of the threads). I use them strictly for docklines.

I prefer to use the 2 X 6 chained down for towing. (See above post). Personally I don't know how strong the fibreglass is at the gunwale area. What would have happened to my boat if I didn't have the 2 X 6 to take the sudden stresses I faced in Wisconsin? With my luck the fibreglass would've torn out leaving two gaping holes. The 2 X 6 also secures the back half of the tarp in place.

Have either one of you installed a compass in your boat?

---

posted March 08, 2002 11:07 AM            

Bright warm sunny day here... SPING I SMELL IT!!!!

A few ideas on trailering.

1/The standard CL supplied trailer is a "Cradle Ride" design (so are our dollies). The trailer is supplied with north/south bunks as opposed to "spilled" (cut to the shape of the boat) supports. There are a few reasons for this.

a/after the trailer is exposed for a few years the plywood that makes up the supports begins to rot... causeing them to weakin, and then oneday you will go to muscle up your boat and snap.. it finally gives way.

b/when you boat is being winched up, there is nothing to support the boat between the supports. No rollers or nothing. You run the chance of "dropping" the boat on the trailer and axle. not good (unless you bring the repair to us =) )

c/the supports are cut to a certian point on the boat, unless you get the boat to that point every time... it will not be working 100% and unless the trailer is built for a "CL16" with the proper tongue weight for your car and back... you are stuck with it.

That is my opinion on those types of trailers. I feel that a double bunk with 3 rollers is the best way to do it. The bunks tilt ot guide your boat into position and if you water them down they will slide great. One thing to consider is a hybrind we have used on bigger boats. A bunked trailer, with locks installed in the way of a spilled support. This is the way it works. You set up your bunked trailer for good tongue weight, position and supoort and then you locate a spot on the trailer that is open enough to allow a cutout to fit in (as close to the fenders as possible as this is where the boat hits, get damaged and lifts itself). Mark this spot on the boat. Remove the boat fromt he trailer and then make your cut out to fit that part of the hull for either side. The supports stop the rocking of the boat and also make stepping the mast less of a ballancing act if you have to untie the boat to get acess to step the mast (for people who carry camping equipment).

This is probably too much for the average user but if you are seriously concerend about the rocking or such, then it may work. If you need more info on spilling pelase ask. Its the technique used for tansfering the shape of the hull onto wood so that the supports cane be made.

One of the nice things about a mast support is that it give clerance of a trunk so that it can be opened. The disadvantage as has already been discussed is that the mast will flex. Thankfully, that mast on a CL16, 14, 11 and just about any boat is made to flex. After all that is what gives you good sailshape. So, if the boat is tied down propery and secured to the trailer, there is no real problem with using the mast stand, provided you are not trying to make a career of hat steal my zooooooooooming by people really fast so their hats fly out the window. Sorry, I had to. One way to avoid the flex prolem is to watch the way you tie down your mast. For example; do not tie te mast down every two feet with bungie cords with metal hooks (don't use those anyway, they hurt, rust, bend, break, and don't work). Also at the transomti around the mast, not through it. What i mean by this is if you use clove hitches and timber hitches, they go around the mast and will allow the mast to bend, and slide through it, assorbing the shock. Of course you have to use this in moderation, as it has to be tight enought to stop the mast from impaling the tailgater behind you.

FYI: the covers that we sell, are made with a hole so that when the mast is on the mast stand and at the back, it will act as the ridge pole and create a tent. The cover also does the same when the mast is stepped, on it uses the boom. Here is a picuture

About compasses, I promised Celtic Kiss a diagram of my install and I also promised whited a mast lever diagram, they are coming =) I am buuuuuuuuussssssssy.

Also i wish to throw out this idea now. There is a chat feature available to us. How about scheduled chats? its a little easier then this posting and it should help. What o ya think?

Hope all this helps,

If you guys need to talk, just call 905.894.2233 and ask for Cody.

------------------
Cody
Sailing Advisor/Sales manager/Web Development
CL SAILBOATS
codyc@clsailboats.com

The chat line sounds like a great idea. Unfortunately there are only a few of us who know about this option. We also have to consider the time zones. 4 1/2 hours between Victoria and St. Johns. But if we can all agree on a set time we can try it out. We gotta start somewhere and with spring coming on the interest level should increase. I notice that the class association board is basically inactive now, and that's too bad. Maybe if you tried doing a mail-out etc. to advertise ( Gam Magazine?) this new board may start hoppin'.

Robert

For some reason my canvas cover doesn't have a hole like Cody mentioned (and showed in the drawing) near the stern. I like that much better (it would have avoided my stern-crutch problem).

It may be a couple of weeks before I can get the time to photograph the "minimast" but I'll try and post something as soon as possible.

Couple of questions for all:

What do you do with an outboard during trailering (2hp Johnson about 28#'s)? Is the transom strong enough to leave it on the boat during transport? Do I need to construct some sort of rack for the motor on the trailer tongue?

How do you avoid having the propeller chew-up the rudder? When you're motoring do you pull up the rudder and steer with the motor? Do you leave the motor alone and steer with the rudder (but make sure not to pull the rudder hard over)?

I'll give you my two cents worth here.

Personally I wouldn't tow my CL with the motor on the transom. And yes it comes down to a strength issue. Though I do not have a motor for Celtic Kiss yet, I have the option of placing the motor in the back of my pick-up truck. I like to use the spare tire as my resting ground for the engine itself and prop up the shaft on something else.

Another solution is to put the motor right in the cockpit. Just be sure that you place the motor on something to help prevent sliding. I use carpet and of course I tie it down really well so it won't budge.

As for fuel transport, I'm sure that common sense will prevail.

Your idea for carrying the outboard on the trailer tongue. I wouldn't chance it. Too much risk of little rocks flying into it and it makes the tongue weight that much heavier and awkward to work around.

As for your question for the prop eating the rudder. That's a good one. First of all I would leave the motor alone and steer with the rudder. It will be easier for you to navigate in enclosed areas. For the chewing problem, I can think of two things. 1) Put some kind of stopper by the tiller so you don't go over too hard. 2) try fitting the prop with a cage. I've seen a lot of fisherman use it so they dont get fouled-up in seaweed, lobster pot lines etc.

Now I'm going to throw a wrench into your plans. I am trying to stay away from using a motor altogether. If you wish, go to the post about oar-lock installation. Maybe we can share some more thoughts.

posted April 14, 2002 08:54 PM            

I added a cross-bar to the stern mast crutch so the weight of the mast (when trailering) is carried by the transom not the rudder hardware. I still use the gudgeon and pintle to keep the crutch from swaying side to side, but the majority of the weight of the mast is now supported by the transom. I think it should be good enough for this summer.

I'm not inclined to give up the motor just yet although I get Robert's point about the quiet serenity of a good row. A few of the more interesting places to put-in around me require a 1-2 mile stretches before they open up to a protected basin. My sailing ability is yet to be proven and my number one goal this summer is to avoid turning my wife and young kids off to it. One bad day of being unable to get back quickly and it will be me single-handing for the next few years.

I took the cage advice and solved the motor chewing up the rudder problem. An internet search turned up a number of after-market products to attach to the motor to protect the prop. Some were cages, some hoops, some looked like fins. I'm pretty cheap so instead of buying something I took a piece of 1/8" aluminum plate and cut it into a fin shape. I pop riveted it to the cavitation plate just above the prop. It sticks out about 1/2" beyond the arc of the blade, so now if I turn the rudder hard over it just hits the aluminum plate and not the prop. Works great.

Took my first spin in the boat a week ago. The water was brisk but the air temperature was pretty warm. It was great to get out for a maiden voyage.