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Author
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Topic: Almost Lost My CL-16
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mugwhumper
JuniorMember
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posted September 06, 2005 03:16 PM
   
Hi There,I'm new to sailing and recently bought a used CL-16. This past weekend a swirling gust caught me by surprize and layed my new baby on her side. With some difficulty we got her upright and moving, BUT the back third of the boat was awash. Even with me sitting on the bow (200lbs) we were awash and couldn't bail. Luckily we were not far from shore and got a tow in. Once we got her bailed out we figured out that there should be a plug in the underfloor drain. (Please correct me on this if I'm wrong.) When on her side the rear compartment and the underfloor cavity filled with water, when we righted her the water ran aft and had nowhere to go. Hmmmm! Several hundred pounds of water at the back of the boat is not good ballast. Anyway if anyone has any advice regarding this event please reply. I also have several questions I'm hoping someone will answer for me: 1. How much foam is under the floor and is it advisable to add more? 2. I'm thinking of adding additional foam blocks in the rear compartment. Is that a good idea? 3. Does anyone have a structural plan of the floor? In examining the bottom of the hull I've found an area aft of the keel well that when pressed produces a clicking noise. It sounds like a stiffener moving under the floor. Is this a concern? 4. Has anyone installed a sealable access hatch for the underfloor space? What is a good area to gain access? Sorry for the long posting. Hope you can help. IP: 70.49.42.100 |
Steve
Member
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posted September 06, 2005 07:25 PM
I'll try and add some of what I do know - you have a lot going on in that posting.Are you saying that the drain plug for the inner hull is missing? I can see the rear compartment filling right away, but it would take a while for the underfloor cavity to fill. Was it on it's side for quite a while? I don't think there's any foam under the floor and I don't imagine you can add it there. You can add extra foam in the rear compartment and/or under the bow. The CL16 has enough foam flotation to keep it afloat. It will "ride higher" when FULL of water if you put in extra foam. The foam would occupy the space that would otherwise be water if this was the case. re: the clicking noise -How is the condition of your hull otherwise? You should be able to bail after a capsize and sail without the tow to shore. The method would depend on wind and wave conditions. -Steve IP: 204.101.174.189 |
mugwhumper
JuniorMember
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posted September 06, 2005 09:19 PM
quote:
Originally posted by Steve:
I'll try and add some of what I do know - you have a lot going on in that posting.Are you saying that the drain plug for the inner hull is missing? I can see the rear compartment filling right away, but it would take a while for the underfloor cavity to fill. Was it on it's side for quite a while? I don't think there's any foam under the floor and I don't imagine you can add it there. You can add extra foam in the rear compartment and/or under the bow. The CL16 has enough foam flotation to keep it afloat. It will "ride higher" when FULL of water if you put in extra foam. The foam would occupy the space that would otherwise be water if this was the case. re: the clicking noise -How is the condition of your hull otherwise? You should be able to bail after a capsize and sail without the tow to shore. The method would depend on wind and wave conditions. -Steve
Hi Steve, Thanks for your reply. Yes the drain plug for the inner hull was missing. I didn't clue in that it should have one - DUH! We were on our side for 15 or 20 minutes. I should add I had a small Kicker on a rear bracket that once we went over helped pull the stern down, but I thought once we righted the boat we'd be able to bail it out. The hull seems fine externally, just normal minor dings. The first weekend I had the boat I noticed about a gallon of water drained from the inner hull after 2 days in the water, so I checked the hull very carefully flexing it to look for hidden cracks. That"s when I discovered the clicking noise.
IP: 70.49.41.76 |
Canadian Sailor
unregistered
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posted September 07, 2005 04:50 PM
I have not yet managed to capsize my CL-16. I capsized it once on purpose but the rear compartment never filled with water. My compartment already has foam in it.As a soon-to-be sailing instructor, my best advice is that if you see the water in the direction of the wind "darken", begin to ease out the main sail. It is a shame that a capsize should be the end of a great sailing day (If you've sailed "wet-sailers" such as Laser2s it's usually the beginning!). I am rather amazed that you have been able to capsize your boats as I have had to hang all 150 pounds of me off the mast to get it in the water. I have also sailed in large gusts with my friend on the low side to no great effect. ------------------
Canadian Sailor ;)
"Before you criticize someone, you should walk a mile in their shoes. That way, when you
criticize them, you're a mile away and you have their shoes." IP: 209.226.189.4 |
Darcy
Member
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posted September 07, 2005 05:58 PM
I agree with the other guys. Even with the plugs out a swamped dinghy should float high enough to be able to be bailed out. The boat should be your floatation device. Your life may depend on the boats floatation at some time. In a line squall the waves could be going right over your head if you were in the water (even with life jacket on). On the hull however you could sit the squall out quite comfortably.I had a similar incedent in a Finn some years ago (As my sons would say; "The ice cap was still receeding") . Tanks filled with water and I couldn't right the boat. The hull was actually all under water. I was lucky to be spotted by a power boat that towed me in. I prefer floatation air bags instead of foam. I fear the foam will get water logged over time and you'll have a heavy boat. I've seen boats use inner tubes as well. Stick them in the chamber then blow them up to fill the space. D'Arcy IP: 65.94.152.21 |
henning
Member
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posted September 08, 2005 12:56 AM
Mugwumper,
Check out the flange fitting that the plug screws into - it is likely not sealed where it is screwed onto the hull and is leaking into the cavity below the cockpit sole.
Also, check the lower part of the centerboard slot from below; there could be stress cracks that can be filled with some epoxy putty and/or bits of f'glas mat.
Cheers, and happy sailing! IP: 70.71.12.47 |
Darcy
Member
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posted September 08, 2005 09:29 AM
A continuation on my last comments. Besides good internal floatation (foam or air bags), the tanks should be water tight to stop water leaking in. Our guys raced Lasers for some years and a water tight hull was critical. Extra water in the hull slopping around not only made the boat slow but tougher to right after a capsize.Check all fasteners for leaking. Make sure joints (Ie: hull to deck edge) are sealed. Plugs and inspection ports should also be water tight. D'Arcy IP: 65.92.99.242 |
mugwhumper
JuniorMember
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posted September 08, 2005 01:05 PM
quote:
Originally posted by mugwhumper:
Hi There,I'm new to sailing and recently bought a used CL-16. This past weekend a swirling gust caught me by surprize and layed my new baby on her side. With some difficulty we got her upright and moving, BUT the back third of the boat was awash. Even with me sitting on the bow (200lbs) we were awash and couldn't bail. Luckily we were not far from shore and got a tow in. Once we got her bailed out we figured out that there should be a plug in the underfloor drain. (Please correct me on this if I'm wrong.) When on her side the rear compartment and the underfloor cavity filled with water, when we righted her the water ran aft and had nowhere to go. Hmmmm! Several hundred pounds of water at the back of the boat is not good ballast. Anyway if anyone has any advice regarding this event please reply. I also have several questions I'm hoping someone will answer for me: 1. How much foam is under the floor and is it advisable to add more? 2. I'm thinking of adding additional foam blocks in the rear compartment. Is that a good idea? 3. Does anyone have a structural plan of the floor? In examining the bottom of the hull I've found an area aft of the keel well that when pressed produces a clicking noise. It sounds like a stiffener moving under the floor. Is this a concern? 4. Has anyone installed a sealable access hatch for the underfloor space? What is a good area to gain access? Sorry for the long posting. Hope you can help.
IP: 70.49.22.99 |
mugwhumper
JuniorMember
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posted September 08, 2005 01:14 PM
quote:
Originally posted by mugwhumper:
OH OH! I think I clicked the wrong button. Anyway, Thanks for the replies. I'll Check the drain fittings and if they're tight I'll add some silicone to the outside. I've examined the hull and other than the clicking noise I identified I don't see any cracks. I'm going to add flotation front and rear, some type of inflatable bladder. I intend to winter it upside down and repair any blemishes on the hull in the spring. IP: 70.49.36.11 |
clracer
Member
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posted September 28, 2005 08:46 AM
this sound like there is more here i have flipped my boat i was out in a north 20knot breez when i flipped my recently and i was able to keep sailing after and i never keep the inner plugs in teh only plug i keep in is my transom one. can you lift the nose of your boat i have found in some cl there seems to be cardboard in the front that has degraded and stops the boat from draining by blocking the drain hole it sounds like your boat is sitting really low to the water. i can lift my boat nose up we had a boat in cobourg that it took 5 people to lift the nose his boat was sitting low in the water and the cardboard was blocking the hole so we drilled holes inside the front twards the back for the front and it was like old fathfull for 2 hours IP: 65.93.200.5 |
