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Author
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Topic: Items needed for the Rendevous
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Eric
Member
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posted July 03, 2005 08:32 PM
   
For those of us going to the Rendevous in Parry Sound, I thought I'd start a thread on things we'll need to bring.
Allow me to start 
Fenders. I'd suggest about 4. If we raft up, that would be 2 per side for each boat. In the marina we'll likely need 2 or 3 for tying up to the dock.
Anchor. We'll be anchoring in sand or mud I assume. For overnighting purposes, I'd suggest a decent weight Danforth or Bruce style, with chain and plenty of nylon rode.
Some form of anchor light. If you don't have a fixed anchor light at the mast head, then you'll need to hang one from the forestay, or a flag halyard. I'm going to bring a hurricane lantern.
Some form of bug screening. This doesn't need to be complicated. I just simply have some bridal veil material which I clamp to the companionway, with little spring clamps. This keeps most of the bugs out. One blessing is that this time of year is better for less mosquitoes
Small tarp and bungees for a boom tent. I have a small tarp I use ove the boom in case it rains. It also allows you to keep the companionway open for ventilation during a rain. I find the cockpit seats still get a little wet, but at least there is still some shelter.
A cooking appliance. We need to make coffee in the morning  I have an alcohol stove myself. A propane Coleman is good. If you don't have a stove, I've heard the little single burner butane stoves are good. They're about $35-40.
More stuff will come to mind later.
Chime in with other suggestions though.
In Parry Sound, there is a good hardware store a few blocks away from the marina, should you need fuel or whatever. Last year when I went sailing there, I forgot a little funnel to fill my stove with fuel  . No coffee for me that morning, until I walked downtown to a coffee shop. I'm glad I wasn't anchored out far away that night 
Eric
[This message has been edited by Eric (edited July 03, 2005).] IP: 130.63.85.93 |
whited
unregistered
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posted July 03, 2005 08:44 PM
Eric...does you hurricane lantern use oil, naptha gas or batteries?IP: 156.34.91.186 |
Eric
Member
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posted July 03, 2005 09:32 PM
kerosene! Saw guys using them in Florida, and they worked great. There're supposed to last a couple of nights on a tank of fuel.With all the electric, LED and solar powered stuff on the market, I'm going back in time with my simple $10 lantern Eric [This message has been edited by Eric (edited July 03, 2005).] IP: 130.63.85.93 |
Eric
Member
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posted July 03, 2005 09:45 PM
 I'm sure this is the one I bought. It's a Dietz, and I think I paid $14 for it. I tried it out at home one night. The bail doesn't get very warm. You can swing this thing around, and there's no way it goes out. Got it at my local hardware/marine supply store in town http://www.lanternnet.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=WKL&Product_Code=DHL1&Category_Code=DL
Eric IP: 130.63.85.93 |
whited
unregistered
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posted July 03, 2005 10:40 PM
This is the model I have from lee valley. It was a lot cheaper than the $ 180.00 brass 'Welsh Miners lamp' or 'Trawlers lamp' you see at marine stores. http://www.leevalley.com/garden/page.aspx?c=&p=10311&cat=2,40731 IP: 156.34.91.186 |
Eric
Member
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posted July 08, 2005 11:26 AM
This is not really something to bring to the rendevous but may have implications on you getting there and home safely.CHECK YOUR TRAILER WHEEL BEARINGS If you haven't done this job for sometime, it may be wise to get your hands dirty at home, than on the side of the highway Be sure to thoroughly clean the bearings, hubs and spindles of the old grease with thinners. Carefully inspect the bearings for pitting, and discolouring(excess heat). Check the races in the hubs for the same problems. If you detect these problems, get new bearings. Buy quality bearings!! Replace the rear seal regardless. Purchase a high quality grease. Personally I've been using Shell SRS2000. I buy it at a local fuels/lubricant dealer in Barrrie. I've provided a link to a product info sheet, below. When I reassemble the hub, I tighten the castle nut about a 1/4-1/2 turn with a wrench after finger tight. While spinning the wheel, I gently back off the nut. I check for looseness by grasping the wheel top and bottom and giving a wiggle. I like the very slightest movement, this way I know my wheel's not to tight, and I won't overheat the bearing. Then I insert a new cotter pin, and cap the hub. This has worked for me. I made the trip to Florida and back this spring, without incident, so I'm convinced I'm on the right track . I travel the 400 HWY daily, for my commute to work. This is the road you'll likely travel to Parry Sound. Quite often I see trailers off on the side of the road, with a wheel missing, or worse I just see a wheel in the median. Before long a journey, check out the wheels and bearings
http://www.shell.ca/code/products/commercial/lubricants/tips/tips-header/1-30.pdf Eric
IP: 130.63.85.93 |
Darcy
Member
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posted July 08, 2005 02:04 PM
Yep, a little grease can go a long way. You don't want a trailer wheel seizing up on the highway.If we're going any distance at all, we service the wheels. Even if we think they look OK, we start fresh. Over the last 35 years (Gee Dad did they have cars then?), I've trailered boats thousands of kms and never had a problem. D'Arcy IP: 67.70.85.152 |
Patrick Crooks
Member
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posted July 08, 2005 03:39 PM
I agree with Eric on everything except one item.The castle nut should be tighten to snug & the hub will be very hard to move at this point (This way if the bearing cups are not seated properly they will be now), then back off the castle nut 2-3 notches and wiggle the hub. You will now find that the hub turns easily with very little movement. This is what we tell all of our customers to do, with the hubs we make for them. I work for a company thats manufactures hydraulic cylinders, wheels, hubs, & spindles for retail, Ag & Industrial uses. You might even have our hubs on your trailers if you've picked your hubs up from Princess Auto or Canadian Tire.
Patrick Crooks,
Product Designer
Canadian Tool & Die
IP: 205.200.66.40 |
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posted July 08, 2005 04:19 PM
Thanks guys. When I bought my boat and was preparing for the 800 mile drive home, we took the trailer to a garage for inspection & greasing. Was glad I did. One hub had a white grease in it. Don't know what that was all about.IP: 142.177.169.225 |
Eric
Member
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posted July 08, 2005 04:41 PM
Patrick, sounds quite right! After I read your post, I thought about what I actually do a little bit harder. I usually use a 1/2" drive socket wrench, and as you say snug up the nut. I snug it by tapping on the handle of the ratchet, after free spinning the ratchet. It's hard to describe in words how hard I tap the ratchet, but I seat the bearings. Then I back off. I guess to suggest a 1/4-1/2 turn is a little over the top.
It should only be "x" inch pounds if memory serves correctly.
Thanks for making the clarification Patrick! Patrick, what is your opinion on the newer oiled bearing hubs? I've seen these on some newer trailers, and I think they look like a good idea. What kind of seal do they use on the inboard side? Is it some sort of labrynth seal? Expensive? Eric IP: 130.63.85.93 |
Eric
Member
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posted July 08, 2005 10:18 PM
Just for the sake of discussion, I looked up the torque spec for my front wheel bearings on my Ford pick up. The manual quotes 20-25 foot pounds of torque, then back off the castle nut. The bearings in the truck are tapered roller bearings, not unlike those on my trailer. Sound about right Patrick? I don't know why I never compared the two before. Seems like a good benchmark. (Patrick get's all my bearing questions from now on ). I appreciate your insights. Eric [This message has been edited by Eric (edited July 08, 2005).] IP: 64.228.0.117 |
Patrick Crooks
Member
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posted July 08, 2005 10:36 PM
I'm not to sure what you mean by the oiled bearing hubs (we might call them something different). As for the seal it's probably a double lip seal. Most hubs have a seal that prevents dirt from entering but the double lip seal has sealing lips facing both directions to pervent dirt from entering and oil or grease from escaping. These seals are not very expensive.As for the torque requirements they all differ. My friends Ford Escort says to torque the rear hubs to 50 ft/lbs. So the best thing to do is to snug up to seat, then back off so the hub can move with little effort. Patrick
IP: 142.161.145.45 |
Pathfinder
Member
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posted July 22, 2005 10:51 PM
Bringing lawn chairs to the rendezvous might be a consideration, more for Sunday night, and possibly Friday.IP: 209.239.0.237 |
elmet3
Member
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posted July 26, 2005 01:01 PM
OK, I guess I check the wheel bearings tonite. I am going to take the tires in for inspection as one of them looks iffy. I really don't want to blow a tire on the 401.IP: 67.107.33.106 |
Patrick Crooks
Member
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posted July 26, 2005 10:59 PM
Camera's, don't forget your camera's. Please take lots of photos to post so we can see what we were missing.Have a great rendevous everyone. Patrick
IP: 206.45.177.11 | |
