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Author
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Topic: Ladder installation 'down photos"
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whited
unregistered
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posted October 30, 2005 02:13 PM
 
and now in the 'down position'...
and:
 IP: 142.167.230.201 |
SuperPiper
Member
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posted October 30, 2005 03:07 PM
Don:Most Excellent ! That is a perfectly engineered installation. What were the criteria for determining the height and the lateral location on the transom? It is very impressive that you staggered the stand-offs to support the ladder near the turn of the transom. The transom would be strongest close to the hull/transom joint. If you ran #6 AWG cable from a shroud plate to a backing plate of the ladder, you could sail with the ladder in the down position and be somewhat protected in a thunderstorm. IP: 67.71.21.103 |
CK 2120
Member
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posted October 30, 2005 04:04 PM
Very Interesting point to ponder for a lightning strike. I was also told that I could wrapa length of chain around a shroud and drop it the free end overboard.Robert
Celtic Kiss #2120 IP: 142.59.142.144 |
whited
unregistered
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posted October 30, 2005 05:49 PM
Thanks Dennis.
As far as height goes...someone in here mentioned that at least two ladder steps should be underwater to make it easier to climb on it.
As far as lateral positioning...my backing plate was 15" wide...so I looked inside and judged placement between the pintle/grundgeon reinforced area and my thru-hull. I did set the standoff on the right side of ladder purposely to that stronger point. With the left standoff, I just winged it.
It was important that the ladder be heavy duty, as it will have to support more than most of the other members ladders.
(unless I get into shape over winter)IP: 142.167.230.201 |
2short S565
Member
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posted October 30, 2005 07:30 PM
That is a pretty much a perfect installation I think.
I noticed the heavy yellow buggie on the the stern rail.
For safety in the event that I ever fell overboard and needed to put the ladder down while in the water, I kept my ladder up using the smallest bungie that I could find (Canadian Tire black one). I looped the bungie around the ladder and the stern rail post but connected the ends of the bungie together with a small clevis pin ring. I had a short line on the ladder at a reasonable height above the mounting brackets so that when in the water I could reach up and pull the line to lower the ladder down. The clevis pin ring would deform and let go. A small tie-rap kept the bungie attached to the stern rail post so it wasn't lost.Fred [This message has been edited by 2short S565 (edited October 30, 2005).] IP: 70.52.230.141 |
Ken
Member
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posted November 01, 2005 01:47 PM
A nice winter project would be to make up some teak step plates for your ladder. Tubular steel ladder rungs are murder on bare feet.IP: 141.117.228.250 |
whited
unregistered
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posted November 01, 2005 04:30 PM
Hopw would you fasten them Ken...without drilling into the rungs?Just after i had ordered that ladder from CL, I dropped into MMOS and saw an absolutly beautiful Italian made ladder that came with teak on the rungs. It was busy there, and the price tag wasn't on..so I don't know what it cost...probably around $ 200.00. http://www.mmosonline.com/Main.asp?D=%7BE9F14FB0%2D0518%2D467A%2D8A9B%2DC5A986C887EA%7D&PageType=ProductList&CategoryID=555156 IP: 142.167.230.201 |
SuperPiper
Member
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posted November 01, 2005 06:25 PM
Now that's the difference between Ken and me. I would never think to add teak. The totally functional, yet maintenance-free installation is appealing and perfect in its simplicity. Don, your ladder is finely crafted with modern aesthetics.The question is: Do chicks prefer cold hard steel or bright warm wood grain? IP: 70.51.204.196 |
whited
unregistered
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posted November 01, 2005 07:03 PM
Maybe if I buy a couple of these...
http://ca.binnacle.com/online/product.asp?pf%5Fid=23946&dept%5Fid=6160
use the proper router bit to make a slight channel lengthways to accomodate the 7/8" OD rung
and used the ss strap type fastener...it might work. How deep for teak rung...about 2 inches?[This message has been edited by whited (edited November 01, 2005).] IP: 142.167.230.201 |
Eric
Member
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posted November 02, 2005 06:44 AM
Looks really good Don.
I side with Ken on the steps. They will be much more comfortable on the feet. I don't think using teak is as important. You could use mahogany, or any other tight grained hardwood, IMHO. I inherited my ladder from the previous owner. My steps are made of maple, I believe. I have applied 3 coats of Cetol Marine, and 2 coats of Cetol Gloss(but not on the stepping surface).  Looking at the transom, the mismatch of wood is muted with the uniform Cetol finish on all my wood. Add to the fact that the rudder and tiller are made from non teak wood.
There hasn't been any discolouring, or other wear that I can see. They are simply bolted to the stainless rungs, with stainless #10 machine screws. Eric [This message has been edited by Eric (edited November 02, 2005).] IP: 130.63.85.93 |
SuperPiper
Member
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posted November 12, 2005 02:53 PM
Here is the rudder-gantry-slash-boarding-ladder that was shown some time ago. it is only tacked together and is still quite rough. Lots of drilling, cutting and welding still to complete. The stern light will be located on top of the transom mast. A car radio antenna may be mounted there as well. I considered putting the VHF antenna there; but, it should probably be mounted on the masthead. A bracket on the side of the transom mast could be used as a mast support while trailering. A water-bottle holder could stow the throw rope bag, etc, etc . . .The first rung of the ladder will be about 10" above water unless something is hinged from it. The rudder head could be shortened (again).  
[This message has been edited by SuperPiper (edited November 12, 2005).] [This message has been edited by SuperPiper (edited December 30, 2005).] IP: 69.156.56.251 |
whited
unregistered
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posted November 12, 2005 05:44 PM
That is 'one radical looking stern' Dennis.
Was it you pushing D'Arcy at the rendezvous races?
IP: 142.167.230.201 |
Shortstay
Member
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posted November 13, 2005 08:04 PM
I hate to display my stupidity in public, but could you enlighten my ignorance by telling me what a "gantry" is & how it's used?Thx! ------------------
Kevin
Shortstay III, #901 IP: 24.52.14.123 |
2short S565
Member
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posted November 13, 2005 08:16 PM
Gantry is used in many instances in civil engineering.
Here is one that prolley suites this case;"a framework of steel bars raised on side supports to bridge over or around something" Fred IP: 70.52.230.113 |
SuperPiper
Member
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posted May 14, 2006 02:13 PM
This is a first for me. It is a 3-D shape from glass & laminate. This is the fitting that mounts on top of the staff on the rudder gantry. A finished-product photo will be posted later.  IP: 65.93.74.43 |
KenM
Member
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posted May 14, 2006 06:38 PM
And the reason, advantages, for the "radical looking stern" is?????
What practical purpose does it serve???
Does the boat sail differently,easier??
I have difficulty seeing that as some sort of boarding ladder.
call me curious George.
KenM[This message has been edited by KenM (edited May 14, 2006).] IP: 24.36.81.245 |
Kiwi John
Member
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posted May 14, 2006 09:50 PM
Just read your posts on the ladder rung options, my craft has the original ladder (I think) and has plastic rungs. They were originally teak but were replaced for the mainenance free type!
I have the original teak steps and I have no need for them.
If anyone can use them they are free and I will mail them too!
Here's some pic's of them, 3 steps, 2 wide, one narrow and two spacer blocks.
John
 IP: 216.221.81.97 |
whited
unregistered
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posted May 14, 2006 10:06 PM
John..would those steps require me to drill holes through my ss rungs?
Where do the spacers go?IP: 142.167.245.121 |
Kiwi John
Member
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posted May 14, 2006 10:20 PM
quote:
Originally posted by whited:
John..would those steps require me to drill holes through my ss rungs?
Where do the spacers go?
Yes you would need to drill two holes in each rung and attach with SS flat head screws, I probably have those too!
The spacers go under the mounting plates, I suppose they space the ladder out for toe clearance is my guess. I think my ladder has the spacers in plastic.
John IP: 216.221.81.97 |
SuperPiper
Member
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posted May 15, 2006 05:08 AM
KenM:The reasons for eliminating the transom were trivial: The cockpit seat drains were always plugged and therefore the lazarette was frequently flooded. Now the seats drain over the transom. The tiller rubbed on the bottom of the transom cutout. So instead of raising the rudder hardware on the transom, the transom was eliminated. Subsequently, the rudder head was shortened and ligtened. After the modification, Sapphire's tiller was made to pivot up/down at the rudder head. And, hinges were installed on the lazarette cover. Now the lazarette may be accessed while underway. The outboard had been hard to reach over the tansom. The motor was hard to tip full up. The reduced freeboard should make for easier boarding at the stern. I think the modification looks tres cool. Sapphire is a little lighter in the bum and there is about 2 sq. ft. less windage upwind. Being able to see the boat's wake gives the allusion of increased speed. There was no sense of lost security. However, there is a feeling of reduced privacy in the cockpit. IP: 65.93.74.43 |
whited
unregistered
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posted May 15, 2006 12:16 PM
Thanks John, but I'll wait until I test the rungs. I hate drilling into ss...especially if it's curved pipe. The drill bit would be dancing all over.IP: 142.167.245.121 |
KenM
Member
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posted May 15, 2006 09:19 PM
Superpiper,
went back to your pic's and realised you chopped off the backside of your boat somewhat!!!!!!!!
what's the fitting at the top of the starboard side of the transom used for???
KenM
IP: 24.36.81.245 |
SuperPiper
Member
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posted May 19, 2006 06:09 AM
Here is the final product. The stern light and an AM/FM auto antennae mounted on the staffhead, plus eyes for flying a pennant or a cockpit light.  IP: 69.156.0.117 |
