|
Author
|
Topic: Motor winterizing
|
whited
unregistered
|
posted October 30, 2005 05:59 PM
 
So far, I've added stabilizer to my leftover mixed gas, ran the motor in a tub for 10 minutes, and then shut off gas and forced the engine to starve itself.
I then removed both spark plugs, sprayed a healthy dose of 'fogging oil' into the cylinders and turned the flywheel a half dozen times...before replacing plugs finger tight.
Today, I found my gear oil, so I drained the old out and replaced it with new.
I'll buy a new grease gun and proper marine quality grease to lube the four nipples I've found so far.
Finally, the motor will 'come inside' on my custom built rack where it'll spend the winter next to a 50 yr old British Seagull.
(basement heated to about 50-55 deg)
Have I missed anything important?IP: 142.167.230.201 |
Hyprstitch
Member
|
posted October 30, 2005 06:13 PM
 
I'm still hopeing to get out a couple of more timesIP: 207.200.116.203 |
CK 2120
Member
|
posted October 30, 2005 07:08 PM
Don:
It sounds like you have everything covered and while you're at it you may want to check the impeller. A "prop jock" once told me to check the impeller every haul-out season.Robert IP: 142.59.142.144 |
whited
unregistered
|
posted October 30, 2005 07:48 PM
I have the Chilton Shop Manual, but still a bit nervous about dropping the lower end.
I'd like to see it done first.IP: 142.167.230.201 |
Richard
Member
|
posted October 31, 2005 08:19 AM
quote:
Originally posted by whited:
Have I missed anything important?
Unless I missed it, you didn't mention changing the motor oilIP: 207.200.159.100 |
whited
unregistered
|
posted October 31, 2005 04:13 PM
Forgot to mention that my Evinrude Yachtwin is a 2 stroke. No motor oil to change.IP: 142.167.230.201 |
Ken
Member
|
posted October 31, 2005 05:03 PM
Impellers should probably be checked or changed each spring. Cooling water (or the lack of it) is important. The impeller is rubber and can disintegrate...spewing bits of rubber into small cooling passages. At the least...the rubber vanes will take a "set" over the winter and be less effective next year.
That's why we replace impellers on inboard diesel auxillaries on bigger boats.
Truth to tell...I don't know where to find/access the impeller on our dinghy's 15hp 2 stroke Yamaha. Better I should find out!There's a fuel filter on the side of your outboard. Remove the thumbscrew and inspect/clean the metal screen inside. This will also help to drain residual fuel from the delivery lines. Do this outside, as the inevitable dripping fuel is smelly and potentially dangerous...'specially if you have a furnace or other ignition nearby in your basement.
------------------
"Never be afraid to try something new: Professionals built the Titanic
And amateurs built the Ark."
[This message has been edited by Ken (edited October 31, 2005).] IP: 141.117.228.250 |
whited
unregistered
|
posted October 31, 2005 06:58 PM
Thanks Ken..I'll do that.
I wish someone around here offered outboard motor maintenance classes. Tthat would be a fun way to spend cold winter days/nights.IP: 142.167.230.201 |
Richard
Member
|
posted November 01, 2005 07:46 AM
quote:
Originally posted by whited:
Forgot to mention that my Evinrude Yachtwin is a 2 stroke. No motor oil to change.
Doh!
I had just done the maintenance on my Honda 4 stroke a few days ago, should have clued in to your mention of mixed gas. IP: 207.200.159.146 |
henning
Member
|
posted November 01, 2005 07:47 PM
Hey all,
Actually, if your motor use is in fresh water, and especially if contact with a sandy beach is not an issue, then every alternate year is fine for inspection of the h2o pump impeller. When you do so, you should also check the bottom plate, and the housing for scoring-type wear - such wear limits the efficiency of the pump. When you are putting the lower unit onto the motor housing, make sure you have a good O-ring below the splines of the driveshaft, and that you put some Never-Seize (or grease) on the splines. This makes disassembly easier in the future. Also, Never-Seize (or substitute) should be used on all h2o pump bolts, housing bolts, etc...IP: 70.71.22.113 |
Eric
Member
|
posted November 02, 2005 06:34 AM
Good points on the water pump. One thing to watch out for, is when you tighten up the bolts that hold the pump together, that you don't overtighten them. Knowing the proper torque would be useful. I overtightened mine once, and ended up melting the plastic bodied pump  . I had to replace the whole pump. Learn from my mistakes  .
This applies to my Merc, not sure about other makes.Eric IP: 130.63.85.93 | |
