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Author
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Topic: Furling Jib / Genoa and Taughtness
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Patrick Crooks
Member
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posted February 07, 2005 01:04 AM
   
Here I am again with more questions. I just spent the weekend going through all the posts (Didn't read them all, I just quickly looked them them).Question #1:
How do you get the luff of the jib/genoa tight enough without the use of a winch? Is this a problem or do you let it sag? When I had my DS16 this was a problem we talked about on the forum as well. Question #2:
1) I would like to replace the jib sheet and jib & main halyards to line instead of wire & line and have them lead back to the cockpit as well. Does anyone know the lengths of line required for each. My lines are on the boat and I cannot get to them till spring (to much snow in the storage compound). Thanx, Patrick
Barefoot IP: 142.161.147.49 |
Hyprstitch
Member
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posted February 07, 2005 03:24 AM
Answer to Question #1You can always turn into the wind, set the trim, and then continue on. I need to do this often when my wife is crewing with me. As far as Question #2, mine will run to the cockpit, but I've never measured them. Figure to long, and them cut to size as I did. Sid IP: 198.81.26.106 |
Darcy
Member
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posted February 07, 2005 11:37 PM
I've only sailed Shortwave for one season but here are my observations.We have a furling jib in which the luff is the forestay but because the Sandpiper is rigged like a dinghy (without lower shrouds or jumper struts) it's hard to keep a tight luff. You'll never get it really tight. We tighten the side stays so they are taught but not overly so. If you keep cranking them tighter, the mast just starts to bend in a gracefull "S" curve. Our strategy is to keep the stays medium tight and use the boom vang and traveller to tighten the whole forestay when sailing. The boom vang which has a 3 part purchase pulling the standard vang pulls the boom down which in turn tightens the mainsail. We also keep the traveller right under the boom so the tension of the main sheet is down. When you sheet the main this way it seems to really tighten the forestay while sailing. In a gust; let out the traveller, not the main sheet. By doing this with a tight vang, the forestay tension is not lost. The boat just keeps powering through the gusts. D'Arcy IP: 67.71.53.251 |
Tom D CL16
Member
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posted February 08, 2005 08:34 AM
On my CL16 the original owner had a magic block attached to the mast. This was used to tighten the genoa luff. I took it off.
The block was set up for a 4/1 purchase. The boat was originally set up for racing and it had a lot of special ad ons. This made it easy to tighten the jib and to bend the mast forward for pointing. The wire jib halyard was connected to the block and the line from the block was cleated on the jib cleat on the mast.
For cruising keep it as tight as you can.
Tom D. CL16 # 438IP: 152.163.101.13 |
SuperPiper
Member
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posted February 08, 2005 01:03 PM
My Sandpiper has a Highfield Lever mounted on the mast. It had been located just perfectly to engage a shackle on the end of the wire halyard. It was at about chest height on the side of the mast. However, I relocated and modified the lever and now use a rope halyard.
IP: 199.243.115.165 |
Darcy
Member
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posted February 08, 2005 08:05 PM
We had a mast ram similar to what Tom described on our Int-14. It was set up two work in a simply way; off or on. worked beautifully. Lynn and I were not the heaviest crew around but the mast ram allowed us to depower easily. In the light stuff it straightened the mast and tightened the luff. When the wind picked up we would let it off which caused the mast to fall off slightly spilling wind.Too bad we couldn't have a similar setup on the Sandpiper. D'Arcy IP: 67.70.85.247 |
