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Author
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Topic: Couple Questions
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CoolBreeze
Member
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posted February 11, 2005 05:02 PM
   
Well, a couple sunny days later, here on the East Coast, and I am starting to get my spring projects in line. Went out and bought the rigging I needed to run my halyards back. I bought a stand-up pulley for each halyard that is to be attached to the deck beside the mast foot. and a cheek block to re-direct it back towards the cockpit. Couple things - 1. Has anyone drilled into their mast foot, is is white metal?, I was thinking of buying standard pulleys and attaching them there, but the metal material scared me away. 2. If I attached them to the deck, I plan on backing them with some aluminum (because the force of the halyard will want to try to pull up on the pulley) What is the standard for backing plate? I was thinking 1/8 inch, double the foorprint of the pulley foot? 3. Interior - What is the best stuff to attach things in the interior (wires, clips etc...) without having to drill holes. I want to run some speaker wire and put a couple netting clips inside... As always, thanks for taking the time to help a fellow Piper owner out !!! ------------------
Rob Belliveau
1976 Sandpiper 565
"Cool Breeze"
Halifax NS
Soon to be at DYC IP: 24.215.107.164 |
elmet3
Member
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posted February 11, 2005 06:03 PM
1) The channel bolted to the top of the cabin is extruded aluminum. The cap on the bottom of the mast (working from memory here, trying to remember what it looks like) the cap is cast aluminum. I have drilled and tapped the U channel to attach various things, it is sound metal. I have drilled and tapped the cast aluminum cap on the end of the boom, which I am sure is similar to the cap on the bottom of the mast. It was sound enough. Nothing is made of zinc alloy. 2) If you attach to the deck, you have to worry about compliance (flexing) of the deck, not just pull-through. I would attach to the foot. I have used as big a piece of backing material as looks ok or fits undernieth. Spread the load wider is better. Bedding is good. 3) I have been working on this for 9 months, I haven't found a good way to do it. Others have said they put short screws through. I have too much stuff to mount to feel ok with that. I think I will mount a few boards at a few chosen locations and then mount stuff (clips, hooks, etc) to the board. That way, I can have a few screws hold lots of (light) stuff. And, if I don't like the arrangement, I can move the clips without putting more holes in the boat. IP: 67.107.33.106 |
CoolBreeze
Member
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posted February 11, 2005 07:38 PM
So, looks like the foot of the mast is ok. I will return the stand up pulleys for regular ones and attach to mast foot.Takes care of 1 and 2.
3. I have used some marine grade clear glue in the past for wire clip, but I am not sure of the load I can put on it for other functions... like oar clips etc... Thanks elmet, the mast foot was my biggest concern. I like the idea of bolting to it, which was my original thought, but the supply shop thought I should look into it.
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Rob Belliveau
1976 Sandpiper 565
"Cool Breeze"
Halifax NS
Soon to be at DYC IP: 24.215.107.164 |
whited
unregistered
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posted February 11, 2005 11:57 PM
Rob...one of the group here has posted pictures of the blocks he fastened to the mast step. Hopefully, he'll send the picture again.IP: 142.177.33.151 |
Eric
Member
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posted February 12, 2005 07:40 AM
I removed the mast step a couple of years ago. It's as Elmet said, a piece of alumminum channel. I removed it so I could easily drill holes in 4 corners on the drill press. The holes are 1/2", to allow for attaching swivel end blocks. I have horn cleats on the hand rails near the bulkhead where I have been cleating my halyards. I want to install deck organisers, and run the lines back to cam or clam cleats. I just haven't gotten around to it  . I do have one concern however. I worried that the line exiting the block at the step, will be a little too high entering the organiser(cheek block). I may have to mount the organiser on a teak pad.
 IP: 130.63.85.93 |
CoolBreeze
Member
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posted February 12, 2005 09:51 AM
Great Pic, I was thinking I may have the same problem you just mentioned. I will keep you posted. I have the blocks, I am going to start looking at the angles soon. Were you planning on running the lines outside the grab rail, or try to squeeze it between the rail and the hatch cover?
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Rob Belliveau
1976 Sandpiper 565
"Cool Breeze"
Halifax NS
Soon to be at DYC IP: 24.215.107.164 |
Roger
Member
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posted February 12, 2005 10:02 AM
Different boat; same problem. I used cheek blocks rivited directly to the mast, which turned the lines back towards the cleats. If entry to the sheetstoppers or line organizers is at too high an angle consider the teak mounting block mounted at an angle to accept the sheet, without additional hardware such as stand up blocks to further clutter your deck, reduces mounting holes, and keeps costs down too). This wasn't as much of a problem for me as the lines went directly to the cleats nearby.
http://groups.msn.com/RogerConrad/shoebox.msnw?action=ShowPhoto&PhotoID=100 In the picture at the above link, my lines are 3/8" which may be a bit smaller than on the Sandpiper. These are on a DS II (16'9") IP: 216.55.194.118 |
Eric
Member
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posted February 12, 2005 11:34 AM
Roger, you have it made on the DS!Rob, I've got a spinn halyard, jib halyard, main halyard, topping lift, a cunningham, and tack reef, at the mast so far. I have to decide which one gets left behind  . Actually, one may route on the angle to the horn cleat as they do now. I will need double blocks at the base, where appropriate.
When I laid it all out, I should be able to run a line on either side of the handrail. You can see in the pic that it is not a straight route, no matter where a cheek or double organiser is placed. I've concluded a fairlead will be needed about half way between the block and cleat, so the line doesn't rub against the gelcoat, and so the line enters the cleat fair. Thoughts? IP: 130.63.85.93 |
CoolBreeze
Member
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posted February 12, 2005 12:33 PM
As far as which lines to run back, I am looking at the ones that are the most difficult to adjust under sail with only 2 people. Outhaul, cunningham, topping lift etc... will not make or break you while under sail. That is, in a case of urgency, I like the idea of being able to drpo the sails with relative ease at any point. The other types of lines, there is normally never the urgency. Space is an issue and I don't want to clutter up the deck too much. I may consider running the other ones back at some point, probably to the outside of the handrail. Good point on the fairlead to guide the halyard, I never thought of that. I may have to angle the cheek block a bit, depends on how well I can mount the pulley on the mast foot. ------------------
Rob Belliveau
1976 Sandpiper 565
"Cool Breeze"
Halifax NS
Soon to be at DYC IP: 24.215.107.164 |
Patrick Crooks
Member
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posted February 12, 2005 06:34 PM
When I was in Toronto last summer I took some pictures of a piper that might be of some interest.
 IP: 207.161.57.140 |
whited
unregistered
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posted February 12, 2005 07:10 PM
Good thread. Since I'll probably be sailing single handed a fair amount of time, I appreciate the ideas discussed here. Since I have the furling jib, I suppose I only need 3 lines from the mast into the cockpit.
I'm thinking main halyard, line to bring down mainsail and cunningham. I wonder about a line to help reef the main. You would have to tie off at the cringles anyway.
I forget how many there are...maybe 4...one at the luff, one at the leach and two in-between?? IP: 142.177.33.151 |
CoolBreeze
Member
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posted February 12, 2005 07:24 PM
This has turned into the thread of my dreams!! That was exactly what I was visioning, but wans't sure if it would all fit. I think I'd rather use cheeks blocks than the fairleads, I'd also be worried about the upward force on those corners because the pulleys are up a fair bit higher. I'd say he has the main, jib, topping lift and a spinnaker halyard or cunningham. Interesting boom vang set up, there is an obvious modification there - mounting right on the foot. I would also look at using a double pulley on each side of the mast if I were to go that far.------------------
Rob Belliveau
1976 Sandpiper 565
"Cool Breeze"
Halifax NS
Soon to be at DYC IP: 24.215.107.164 |
Eric
Member
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posted February 13, 2005 07:51 AM
That's a nice neat installation, on that Oakville Sandpiper! Thanks for sharing Patrick!
I'm not to crazy about the height of the lines coming from the mast base blocks, leading into the fairlead.
I have a bail at the base of my mast for the vang connection, which I would reccommend. You can see it it the pic. You could also attach a block here as well for another control line.
I like the neatness of the stoppers, at the cabin roof/bulkhead area. Very tidy.
These pics don't show it, but the outer line could be rubbing along the middle hand grip support. This is where I think a fairlead is required.
One thing to also keep in mind is that the deck isn't very flat in the area where the deck organisers (or cheekblock) would go. This could be a reason this sailor went with fairleads.
You'll also see a line along the starboard side going to a block on the stem head. I suspect this is a jib downhaul, since he doesn't have a furler. Great rig to have, and easy to do. Now to change the subject slightly  . The red boat to port looks like an EDEL, but what is the blue boat to starboard. Looks like a classic for sure!! Check the wood coaming, toe rail, and the huge aft lazzerette. She looks very well cared for! I love old boats! Eric [This message has been edited by Eric (edited February 13, 2005).] IP: 130.63.85.93 |
Eric
Member
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posted February 18, 2005 11:39 AM
I spend too much time on the internet
That beautiful blue boat is an Alberg 22. The owner has a website of her refit etc, which was completed last year. The vessel's name is Elusive, and she is sure purty  Here's a pic from the onwer's website. Note the Sandpiper to port of Elusive.
 [This message has been edited by Eric (edited February 18, 2005).] IP: 206.172.173.7 |
Ken
Member
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posted February 18, 2005 12:31 PM
Interior - What is the best stuff to attach things in the interior (wires, clips etc...) without having to drill holes. I want to run some speaker wire and put a couple netting clips inside...Ken's answer: Canadian Tire sells black plastic wire looming tubing in various diameters. It's flexible and corrugated, slit along it's length. Fasten it up along under the inside corner of the SandPiper's cabin shelf units using 5 minute epoxy glue. Tack it up first with a hot glue gun and then use the epoxy.
I tried hot glue only but it all came down in the hot summer weather.
Make sure the slit is accessable and then slide in the DC wires and coax too. You can paint the tube for that run from the side of the hull to the bottom of the mast for the outside connections. It's simple to pull the conductors back out of the looming for any wiring changes or T connections. I use this stuff for all engine room wiring. The looming is fastened with plastic ties and a screw to the support surface at 8 inch intervals. Remember that all AC cabling must be loomed seperately from other conductors! They now make special two conductor "Safety" cable for DC. It has one red and one yellow wire. This should prevent confusing a black (hot) AC conductor with a negative DC wire. ------------------
"Never be afraid to try something new: Professionals built the Titanic
And amateurs built the Ark." IP: 141.117.228.250 | |
