posted July 28, 2004 12:43 PM               

Now my questions:

1) The genoa sheets sometimes got caught on the shrouds when tacking. Do you folks have the same problem & how do you attach your sheets?

2) My main halyard has both a D-shackle and a snap shackle. Is that normal?

3) The tack of the main is secured to the boom at the lower forward cringle with a cotter pin. I’ve noticed the main getting caught on the sharp end & risking a tear when raising it. The rigging manual seems to advocate this kind of pin, but is that what you folks use too? Wouldn’t a fastpin work better?

As we get more time onboard, I’m sure we’ll have more novice questions. Thanks for any advice.

posted July 28, 2004 02:49 PM            

My Halyard has just a D shackle. There is a type for Haylards. It has a small pin to prevent it from coming off the Halyard when you undo it from the main.

posted July 28, 2004 03:15 PM               

My jib sheet is rigged same as yours. Perhaps with better helmsmanship on my tacking, I'll stumble on a way to keep the clew from hanging up. I remember your shroud covers from your pics. I'm thinking about doing a similar thing.

The D-shackle is just as you describe. But a snap shackle has been included as a go-between connecting the D-shackle and main headboard. I was wondering why. It seems like there might not be a very good reason for it.

Bending & taping down the cotter pin would work, but since I'm trailering & not leaving her at a slip with the main on most of the time it's a pain in the neck to wrestle with a bent pin every time. Do you think a fastpin would work?

posted July 28, 2004 06:13 PM               

The PO of my boat supplied a hook, don't know what it is called, S-hook thing, for the mainsail tack. THe S-hook is held by a bolt through the fron of the boom, and the cringle goes over the hook. But, I have always thought it didn't look right, the tack was held too high. So i sailed a while with a small bolt through the tack. I suppose this is where you put the cotter pin. That didn't look right either, the tack seemed too low. So i have made a smaller S-hook. I like this better than bolt, Quicker to set, and I can reef by pulling the upper cringle down to the hook.

posted July 28, 2004 07:48 PM               

Our jib catches some times as well. When we tack we let the jib backwind then release it. By doing this the jib is blown through the fore triangle and is out on the leeward side too far to catch the shroud when you pull it in.

posted July 29, 2004 08:22 AM               

I actually did try backwinding the jib, mainly to help pull the bow over, but I guess I need to work on the technique. It was actually getting hung up on the windward shroud (of the new tack) when I released the sheet, not the leeward one when pulling in. Anyway, as I wrote earlier, hopefully my helmsmanship will improve.

Yes, Richard, the fastpin has the little nib with the spring loaded ball. (The only reason I know that is when I was torturing myself walking around West Marine last week, I saw them.) I agree 100%, D'Arcy, that I must affix it to the boom. In fact, the cotter pin there currently is thus attached.

We'll be leaving soon to go back down to Milford where we left Shortstay moored in front of our cottage. Hope she's still floating! Can't wait to get aboard to utilize the suggestions I've gotten the last couple of days.

posted July 29, 2004 09:07 AM               

A good tack involves the elegant coordination of two people (helmsperson & crew) doing several tasks each at just the right time on a stage that is moving. (Simple eh?)

After a few weekends out I'm sure you'll be letting the jib off at just the right momment bringing it in at the perfect point on the other side: Not too tight so as to catch the shroud. But also not so far out that it fills early and is a chore to pull in filled with the full power of the wind.

The crew will have great admiration of a skipper who skillfully manouvers the boat through the wind while the skipper will feel blessed to have such a superb crew always setting the jib to its' most efficient performance.

We've been working on ot for 30 years now. I think we're almost there. Enjoy a summer discovering the beauty of creative sailing.

posted July 29, 2004 09:21 AM               

We really feel so fortunate to have this forum of knowledgeable, helpful people to guide our path of discovery. We also feel blessed for this opportunity for such a wonderful family activity. We made this purchase largely on an impulse, but the stars seemed to have lined up to make it the right decision.

Thanks again, everyone, for all you've done so far and, no doubt, future guidance.

posted July 31, 2004 08:47 AM               

I don't normally have difficulty with my jib sheets hanging up on the shrouds. However, to protect them against chafe, I tape the upper toggle of the turnbuckle up to the nicro press fitting on the shroud with white pvc electrical tape.

My main halyard shackle is a 'D' shackle.

My mainsail tack is held to the boom by a clevis pin and split ring. One time I forgot/misplaced the pin and used a cotter pin. I didn't like that at all! Even after taping the end of the pins, I was nervous about tearing the main, especially when reefed.
I've seen those fastpins (on the net) and they look excellent! No need to fuss with the split ring! For me, I'd like one for connecting the forestay. The tack is another good spot for one. They are quite a price though, but look like a good investment. http://bosunsupplies.com/products2.cfm?product=QRPin

Happy sails Kevin! Sounds like you are enjoying yourself!

posted August 01, 2004 11:12 AM               

I went ahead & got a "D" type 3/16" x 1" fastpin. It cost US$7.99 at West Marine. It's not as snug a fit as I'd prefer because it seems like the aluminum hole has been worn slightly larger. I probably should have gotten a smaller pin, but when I went to my local store the choice was 1/2" or 1". I wasn't sure 1/2" would be long enough & decided it wouldn't cause any problems to be longer. Had a 3/4" been available, I would have gotten that. I am very happy to discard the cotter pin.

As I mentioned, the hole is a bit overlarge, but it still catches the ballbearing at the end some. In addition, I figure the tack cringle is under pressure & thereby creates enough friction to keep it in place. Plus, there's the overlong size which gives the pin a little room to travel without releasing.

As D'Arcy mentioned, I attached a lanyard to keep it from going anywhere should I drop it or it comes free.

Switching gears, I removed the snap shackle from the main halyard & am just using the D-shackle. I feel better about it & it lets me raise the main 1/2" higher. Thanks for steering me right.

I blush to tell you what I did on my jib sheet catching problem. I had some 3' foam rubber pipe insulators that hadn't been slit yet. They are a lightish greenish-gray. I removed my turnbuckles & slid them on. My uncle almost didn't come onboard for shame... His wife told me to avoid leaving them around the s/s continually, so when I'm done for the day, I slide them up. The biggest plus is I can jamb them down over the turnbuckle braces on deck to keep the turnbuckles upright when raising the mast. Plus it gives the kids something larger to grab when moving to the foredeck (they LOVE being on the foredeck/pulpit!).

OK, you can all let me know how declassé I am now!

Thanks to all for your input on these questions!

------------------
Kevin
Shortstay III

posted August 01, 2004 09:48 PM            

quote:

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His wife told me to avoid leaving them around the s/s continually, so when I'm done for the day, I slide them up.[/B]

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Hmmmm...Please explain the logic behind this.

Fred

posted August 02, 2004 10:58 AM               

quote:

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Originally posted by 2short S565:
Hmmmm...Please explain the logic behind this.

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She told me you can't cover up stainless. It causes it to corrode(?). So you shouldn't put tape on it, for instance. Is she inaccurate? At any rate, I just decided to slide up the cover to keep it from being covered for now.

Thanks for that link, Fred. I think that's what I'll do. (I think I have some unused PVC hanging around too!) I will note that the turnbuckles are left uncovered in that link. I wonder if it's related to this corrosion issue?

When I told my uncle I had decided to try the cheap solution of using the foam rubber I already had, he kidded me about how cheap PVC is.

posted August 02, 2004 06:44 PM               

Chloride in the water will TREMENDOUSLY worsen the situation, so it really is probably only a problem for salt water sailors.

Some types of stainless steel are more resistant than others, type 316 is better than most because it contains molybdenum. But all are susceptable to some degree.

What would I do? Heck, use the stainless steel and keep an eye on it. Maybe you'll have to replace it some day. I have lots of stainless on my boat (fresh water) and I have never seen any sign of it.

posted August 02, 2004 09:35 PM               

Crevice corrosion, eh? (Insert tasteless sexist joke here!)

Thanks again.

posted August 03, 2004 11:27 PM               

Apparently an earlier owner of our boat used fastpins on the forestay for quick release. Ken wisely removed them. They can come out when you least expect them so be careful where you use them.

posted August 03, 2004 11:47 PM            

quote:

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Originally posted by Darcy:
I had some serious crevice corrosion once but I cleared it up with some elucidation.

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Apparently elucidation does clear up various forms of darkness very well.

Fred

posted August 04, 2004 08:12 AM               

Touché, both of you.

I feel elucidated.