posted May 24, 2004 04:10 PM               

The hull material is HullLiner. I do Auto,RV, and baot upholstery for a living.

And the crutch that supports the Mast telescopes. Down while traveling, up to Raise the Mast. That way I can Raise it myself. I built it out of square tubing, as you see with holes in it. A roller at the top, so the Mast slides forward and back with ease. With Maxine with me I did not pull out the Mast Rasing system. Let her crank the Mast up with the trailer wench.

It was a good day on the lake. Lots of wind. One boat capsized. No one hurt. Guess I'll have to do it again this weekend,

posted May 24, 2004 07:21 PM               

Photo #2 shows a couple of lines I am unfamiliar with. The one on port side beside the boom vang, and the line between the starboard shroud and the mast, what are they and what do they do?

I think your interior looks great! Is it foam backed, how did you apply it, and how much to produce another set and send it to Canada !!

OK that's more than two questions, so I'll quit now!

posted May 24, 2004 09:53 PM               

The lines do two things, first they Won't let the mast swing from side to side while raising and lowering it. I can try to explain whats needed to be done if your interested in building a mast raising system. I'll get a good picture of them the next time I set up the mast. I have a 6 foot pole that pivits on the mast step that pulls the mast up using the halyard line. If you look at a Mac26 I set mine up in a similar fashion.

Also, if a side stay should break, the mast should not fall.

Sid

posted May 25, 2004 12:48 AM               

quote:

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Originally posted by whited:
Hi Sid..I'd like a photo of your complete mast raising system also. I'll have to get a workable system in place soon.
Don in Halifax

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Hello Don, next week when I go sailing
I'll take pictures of each part of it, and show me setting it up and raising the mast. Then some explaining as you all need. In the mean time you need a 2 single blocks, and one double block. 6 foot pole, 3\4 inch to one inch, 50 foot of line, 1\4 to 5\16 is fine. A chunk of 1\4 aluminum plate 2 inches by about 20 inches. It will have to be cut into two peices, I'll give the sizes later. These are added to your mast step for the pole used to raise the mast to pivit on. I used 3\16 aluminum wide flange rivits to attach the aluminum plate to the mast step, but you can use stainless screws and nuts. But the Rivits are almost flush to the plate.

You need a longer mast crush to use to elevate the mast before raising, or make a telescoping one like I did.

Once built you will love it, while building it, your gonna hate me. Unless you like doing stuff like this as I do.

It took me a day to gather all I needed, and most of a day to do this on the boat. But I was mostly on my own. Phone time may be needed, and that is not a problem. I can assemble my boat alone in an hour or so.

It was find a way to raise the mast alone, or sell the boat. I still have the boat.

posted May 25, 2004 12:51 AM               

I like your mast crutch idea.
I don't have any special mast raising system, or at least what I'd call it .
I have my mast supported by piece of plywood, wedged between the transom and the lazerette lid. I put a longer one beside it when I go to raise the mast, maybe 3.5-4' long. I tie a long line through the bow roller to the forestay with a shackle, and bring it back around the shroud to the jibsheet cleat on the starboard side. The shrouds are connected, turn buckles partly unscrewed. I use electical tape to hold the turnbuckles erect before raising, to prevent bending turnbuckles. I make sure the shrouds are free from any possible tangling.
Then I stand in the cockpit, with the line in my right hand, and walk up the mast, going forward and finally standing on the table inside, and keeping the line as taught as possible. Once the mast is up, the shrouds will prevent the mast from going forward, I cleat off that line that I've been holding in my right hand.
Then I take my jib halyard and snap shackle it to a padeye that is mounted between the forecleat and bowplate, and cleat it tight. Alternatively, you could probably attach it to the cleat. Then I undo the rope attached to the forestay, and attach the forstay to the waiting turnbuckle at the bow plate. (The jib halyard is holding up the mast during this step)
I find the trick is, to raise the mast with a smooth, continuous, steady motion.
Yes, it's easier to have someone watch for tangles, or pull the line through the sheet cleat, but I've done it this way on my own now many times, and I seem to be OK with it. The first couple of times, I worried the mast would go all the way forward. Once I wasn't raising smoothly enough, and I thought I'd loose it over the side, but after a few more goes, you get used to the feeling. Lowering is actually easier, because the line runs through my hands free as I lower the mast.

One more thing, NOTE TO DON, when you're getting trailer prices, get the guide on support thingies, Sid has on his trailer, aft of the wheels. I want a set of those. It makes retrieving the boat back on the trailer a brezze. Alot of the bass boaters have those. You can also see them on neighbouring trailers in Sid's pic.

posted May 25, 2004 02:06 AM               

Also if you look I have guides on my trailer. I added a fold out steps to them. Now it is east to climb in and out of the boat.

Sid

posted May 26, 2004 09:10 AM               

Your pictures are a sweet reminder of good weather to come.