posted May 19, 2005 12:35 PM               

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I have read a couple of articles on reseating ports & there are two different strategies involved vis-a-vis sealing.

One is use a silicone caulk as a bead but not crank it down until after it cures so as not to squeeze it all out.

The second method is to use a marine weatherstripping and only caulk the screw holes.

I kinda like the second option. I think it would be cleaner, but I'm concerned about the corners not being tight.

Anyone have any experience/suggestions for performing this operation on a Piper?

As always, thanks for your help/input!

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Kevin
Shortstay III, #901

IP: 129.170.160.204

posted May 19, 2005 10:01 PM            

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I bought new windows from CL last summer and installed using the first method.
with 3M sealant (I forget whether it was 4000 or 5200 but I think it was 5200).
I removed the old windows and scrapped off the old sealant. This was VERY time consuming and awkward job as the boat was in the water.
I put the sealant all round the edge of the new window. As with anything else I put on too much.
Then I put the window into place using a couple of screws to locate and hold it in position. This was a REAL messy process. That sealant is gooey, runny and sticky.
Then I did up all the screws until the window was snug but not tight. At that point the sealant spead out and filled the entire surface between the window and the fiberglass, but also squirted out everywhere.
Then I cleaned up the mess as much as possible with a plastic scraper followed by paper towels (the tough blue ones that CTR sells). Then final cleanup with varsol and paper towels being carefull not to use too much and wash the sealant out of the joint.
Then I rewaxed the fiberglass.
After the sealant cured I gave each screw a bit of a turn to compress the sealant slightly.
Fred

IP: 65.92.205.55

posted May 19, 2005 11:47 PM               

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Even though it's messy, I'd personally go with the silicone. I've never had much luck weatherstripping a total seal. It's always leaked.
D'Arcy

IP: 65.92.112.244

posted May 23, 2005 07:55 PM            

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This type of "window rubber" seems to be popular in British sailing magazines. Has anyone considered this? It comes with a locking strip that wedges into the triangular gap. The rubber comes in different sizes and degrees of offset, etc. It would allow the plexiglass to mount more-or-less flush with the cabin sides.

Sapphire does not have the tinted window option so the original caulking shows through as a moldy, grey mass.

[This message has been edited by SuperPiper (edited May 23, 2005).]

IP: 69.156.0.185

posted May 24, 2005 09:20 AM               

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That's an interesting idea. I'd be a little concerned that the port may push through to the cabin with sufficient force.

The interior bit squeezes together so you can install it? Do you have a link to more info?

IP: 198.115.167.43

posted May 24, 2005 12:42 PM            

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The diagram was lifted from this site:
http://www.ukplasticfabrication.co.uk/rubber.php

There are probably others. Google was not much help. I got this site from "Sailing Today" magazine.

IP: 199.243.115.165

posted June 22, 2005 09:11 AM               

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I am looking at replacing my windows since I have the clear ones but think I would prefer the dark tint. Do the people with the dark tint find it too dark in the cabin afterwards? Also CL no longer has them so has anyone had to make their own and have suggestions?

IP: 70.50.247.209

posted June 22, 2005 09:55 AM               

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Hi Ryan. I have the tinted ports, and they are not too dark at all. They're just like looking through tinted glass on a car. The darkness shows on the outside.

As far as re-installing new ports using silicone, has anyone thought of using masking tape to protect the exposed fibreglass around the window?
Here's what I would do. Once the old port is removed, and the area is cleaned, apply masking tape (1.5" 0r 2") around the area of the port, making sure that the tape is partly on the inside the area to be siliconed. Place the port in the correct location, using some screws to hold it steady and correct. Then very carefully use an exacto knife, and carefully cut the tape around the perimeter of the port. Remove the port from it's temporary position. Now remove the tape from the INSIDE, where the sealant will go. Now the area on the outside is protected from the oozing sealant. When you apply the sealant, and excess oozes out, all you'll have to do, is neatly trim the sealant along the perimeter of the port, and remove the masking tape around the outside of the port. You shouldn't have to clean up excess sealant from the cabin top.
This same method works for installing anything on the deck, which requires sealant.
Eric

IP: 130.63.85.93

posted June 22, 2005 12:46 PM               

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ShortWave's windows were rebedded in the spring of 1985. I probably used some kind of Sikaflex compound, not silicon. In retrospect, I might to have tightened the screws a bit too much, as there are small hairline radial cracks at each hole.

These windows have remained virtually leakfree for the past 20 years!
We applied two layers of automotive tint film to the inside of each window. Due tyo the concave curvature, it was difficult to get it wrinkle-free. At night inside the boat, it was hard to see out. At the same time, the illuminated interior was quite visible to dockside strollers. Dockside privacy at night was poor.
After 4 years, we stripped it all off and installed curtains.

[This message has been edited by Ken (edited June 23, 2005).]

IP: 141.117.228.250