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Author Topic:   Tiller Tamer - Readymade or Homemade?
CL14-CentralAir
Member
posted April 11, 2005 10:13 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for CL14-CentralAir   Click Here to Email CL14-CentralAir     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Hi!

It appears that most tiller tamers I've encountered in my recent online shopping experiences are designed for teakwood tillers. My 14 has a metal tiller, so I'm wondering if such tillers (such as one like this: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=4542716850&category=31281&sspagename=WDVW ) would work with my tiller, or if my only option is to gather the needed supplies and rig one up 'from scratch.' (Argh!)

Any suggestions?

Thanks!
Christy

IP: 65.60.136.41

Shortstay
Member
posted April 12, 2005 09:17 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Shortstay   Click Here to Email Shortstay     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I'd suggest a "ready made" model and attach it with stainless steel bolts rather than screws. You'd have to drill through the tiller & I'd try to keep the "stub" of the bolt (i.e. the part coming through the other side of the nut) to a minimum.

My 2 cents.

------------------
Kevin
Shortstay III, #901

IP: 198.115.167.13

whited
unregistered
posted April 12, 2005 09:30 AM           Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
If remember the tiller on the CL 14 being a light aluminum tube. I wonder if some type of 'bracket' fastner would be better. Remember how you used to fasten bells etc to your bicycle handlebars?

IP: 142.177.154.253

Tom D CL16
Member
posted April 12, 2005 10:29 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Tom D CL16   Click Here to Email Tom D CL16     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
On my CL16 I attach a bungee cord to the two eyelets that the hiking straps are attached to on the transom.
When I need it, I just strech it out and loop it over the tiller.
This is not a perfect way. It holds the boat steady while I move up front for a while.
To have some tension I tug a little more on one side of the cord. It works for me and I have been called FRUGAL by some and a cheap Ba$@!@#$@# by others.
Tom D CL16 #438

IP: 205.188.117.73

CL14-CentralAir
Member
posted April 12, 2005 11:04 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for CL14-CentralAir   Click Here to Email CL14-CentralAir     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Thanks, Kevin and whited -

I am generally averse to drilling holes in important things like my boat, so I think I like the bike bell type fastener idea. I'm not sure of the overall mechanics and design of a tiller tamer would be, so I think I'll surf for some photos of such a system and perhaps pay a visit to the Evil Empire (West Marine.) I'm sure they will be more than willing to sell me the components I need to create such a system.

If you all have further advice/descriptions and/or images to share, I would welcome that. But either way - thanks!!

Christy

IP: 12.16.164.205

whited
unregistered
posted April 12, 2005 11:47 AM           Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Christy..
Before you motor over to West Marin, dig out your caliper and measure the outside diameter of your tiller handle.

IP: 142.177.154.253

Ken
Member
posted April 12, 2005 12:06 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Ken   Click Here to Email Ken     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I had the davis tiller tamer on the Sandpiper. It had a lot of friction and was difficult to set up.

For a lightweight boat such as the CL16 I'd recommend a long bungee clipped to each gunwale. Tie some knots in it at 3 inch intervals. Install a small chock or fairlead on top of the tiller, just behind the handle.
http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10001&langId=-1&catalogId=10001&productId=10478&catalogId=10001&classNum=736&subdeptNum=611&storeNum=24

Loop the bungee through the chock when you want to go forward for a short time. The particular space between knots will determine the rudder angle. The bungee should be swept back at an angle to hold the tiller securely.

The bungee can be made from elastic bungee stock sold by the foot. Purchase the appropriate clips for the ends.

------------------
"Never be afraid to try something new: Professionals built the Titanic
And amateurs built the Ark."

IP: 141.117.228.250

Windroos
Member
posted April 12, 2005 04:12 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Windroos   Click Here to Email Windroos     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Hi Ken

I do the same thing with the Sandpiper.

It as always work beautifully and no stress on the machine. You can push the tiller with you knee and use your 2 hands for something else. The size and tension en the elastic will calibrate the tension.

Simple things are sometimes very helpfull.

------------------
John
Quebec city
1981 Sandpiper 927

IP: 66.131.169.240

elmet3
Member
posted April 12, 2005 09:31 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for elmet3   Click Here to Email elmet3     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I have two tillers and two tiller tamers. I made the first tamer for the original tiller, then I made a second tiller and wanted a second tamer. Although the home made tamer works very well, I have a small machine shop available that makes these things not too difficult. I don't think you could fabricate a really good tamer without some machine tools. I don't recomend you try to make your own. I purchased a tamer for my second tiller. $26. Even if it isn't perfect, you can't beat the price, and it works well enough. I think you would be well off to buy a tamer, although I, too, like the handlebar bell mounting concept. I would make a small mounting plate or bracket, I'd screw the tamer to the mounting bracket and then use hose clamps to attach the bracket to the tiller, so as not to have to drill the tiller. Of course, the mounting bracket is also easier to make with machine tools. If seems more trouble than it is worth, heck, drill the tiller.
I hear the bungy straps work pretty good too. Lots of people use them. I didn't want to use them because they stretch under changing load, and the tiller force changes with puffs of wind, waves, etc. I also didn't want to mess around with adjusting tension, and I wanted continuous adjustment. The tiller tamer gives me very fast and continuous adjustment, and it holds that position exactly, regardless of changes in tiller load or force. My home made tiller tamer is especially nice because it has a quick release lever that allows me to release the line, move the tiller to any desired location, and then lock the tiller in the new location. I have sailed a course untill my direction was stable, then locked the tiller, and continued on that course for over a half hour without touching the tiller.

IP: 69.220.224.112

SuperPiper
Member
posted April 13, 2005 04:33 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for SuperPiper     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Instead of mounting a gizmo on the tiller, consider this. Tie a cord to the tiller. Lead it through eyes located on either side of the cockpit. Latch the cord in the spinnaker cam cleats on the cockpit coaming. This is not quite as handy but works not too bad. Because of weather helm, it is generally just the windward side that needs to be cleated.

IP: 65.93.72.237

Patrick Crooks
Member
posted April 14, 2005 12:07 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Patrick Crooks   Click Here to Email Patrick Crooks     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Hello Christy,

I came across this site about a homemade tiller tamer that might be a some use.
http://www.geocities.com/Yosemite/Forest/2727/trailersubweb/trailer_photographs.html#tiller

Patrick "Barefoot"

IP: 206.45.178.176

All times are ET(US)

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