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Author
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Topic: Trailer Lights
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SuperPiper
Member
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posted September 11, 2005 05:21 AM
  
Sapphire is floating at the cottage dock. While the trailer is empty in the backyard would be a good time for some trailer projects.Grounding through the trailer frame is somewhat unreliable. A 3rd conductor from each taillight directly to the plug would be more efficient. What gauge wire is used for trailer wiring? Would stranded outdoor extension cord wire work? Is it cheaper than trailer wire? What is the greasy stuff put on/in electrical connections? How is it applied? Is it smeared around after a bulb is pushed into its socket? Is it stuffed into the socket before the bulb is inserted? Are marker lights on the side of the trailer required? Are they required on both sides? IP: 69.156.56.198 |
workman
Member
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posted September 11, 2005 01:34 PM
hi . my 2 cents worth on trailer lites
-i run a ground from the lite to the frame ,from the frame to the harness. a seperate ground wire cant hurt i am just to cheap.
-14 gauge is plenty, my utility trailer is 16
gauge
-i have used extention coard in the past because i had a surplus but it can create its own problems. ie. lack of color code. more conections. i dont think its any cheaper . i just brought a set of submersible lites from princess auto with 20' wire 17.00+tax
-its called dielectric grease,(ultra seal from grote) under 5.00 it will save you all kinds of grief use it on all conections and
put on your bulbs
=lite regulations differ from province to province. this is a simplified version it may help http://www.camping-canada.com/Towing_regulations_e.htm
and at last use split wire loome over all exposed wire it,s cheap(princess auto)secure the wire well to trailer (don,t just rap black tape around the frame.and if youhave the time (skill)solder your conections .this link has nothing to do with sailboats but its on point and to the point http://www.landlinemag.com/Archives/2003/Oct03/Equipment/wiring_maint.htm hope this helps
mike
QUOTE]Originally posted by SuperPiper:
Grounding through the trailer frame is somewhat unreliable. A 3rd conductor from each taillight directly to the plug would be more efficient. What gauge wire is used for trailer wiring? Would stranded outdoor extension cord wire work? Is it cheaper than trailer wire? What is the greasy stuff put on/in electrical connections? How is it applied? Is it smeared around after a bulb is pushed into its socket? Is it stuffed into the socket before the bulb is inserted? Are marker lights on the side of the trailer required? Are they required on both sides?[/B][/QUOTE] IP: 142.165.220.31 |
elmet3
Member
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posted September 11, 2005 01:48 PM
I don't have authorative answers, but I have some opinions. I had a lot of trouble with trailer lights and had to work everything out before before the rendezvous. I didn't replace trailer wire, but replaced everything else, including lights and connectors, and an interface that allows my five wire car connect to my 4 wire trailer.
I measured current draw with all lights on, and it maxes out about 4 or 5 amps if I recall. That is with driving lights and brake lights and turn signal on. If you read the amperage ratings of the bulbs and add up the numbers, it works out to the max current. It doesn't take much wire to conduct 4 or 5 amps. Quality wire that you can work with, that is well protected and insulated is possibly the most important thing. My trailer had 16 gauge, rubber coated cable in the front, and a lighter, probably 18 gage, wire leading from a junction box to the tail lights. I think 18 gage is more than enough. You could look up current rating of 18 gage wire, but I am sure its more than 5 amps.
I suppose outdoor extension wire would work, its probably 18 gage. You're talking about round cable, right?
The only greasy stuff I know about is called alconox or something like that (somebody on the forum will have the right name) It's made to protect connections between aluminum wires, but can be used for any type of wire connections. I have never heard of it being used for light bulb connections, but I don't see why not. I replaced my trailer lights with sealed units so i wouldn't have trouble with exposed connections at the back of the trailer. Are marker lights required? I don't know about Canada, but in USA they are required for trailers wider than 80 inches (I think, or was it 82?) My trailer was right at the limit, so I purchased sealed lights with side markers. I suspect the number in Canada may be the same because of extensive cross border traffic. You might be able to find out requirements in the West Marine catalog. Hope that was some help. IP: 69.220.224.155 |
Hyprstitch
Member
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posted September 12, 2005 08:31 AM
This should help.
http://www.accessconnect.com/trailer_wiring_diagram.htm IP: 207.200.116.203 |
Eric
Member
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posted September 12, 2005 06:30 PM
I rewired my trailer last season, when I repainted, and refitted her. If you go to a specialty trailer shop, you should be able to find a new harness which has a double brown wire, the tail light wire. This way you elliminate a splice. The normal harnesses usually sold at CDN Tire are generally just 4 wire.
I had to splice in the amber side markers however. I chose to solder the splice, cover it with liquid electrical tape, and then protect the joint with heat shrink tubing. As far as grounding, each light is grounded to the frame, no additional wires. I made sure the surface around the mounting hole was clean. I found that the lamp's one mountng hole, is the ground for the lamp. Personally, I could't see the point of running additional ground wires. If I have a gound problem, I will have reduced my troubleshooting time, by not having to check extra wire and splices. I believe in the KISS formula  .
My harness is also grounded to the trailer frame, with a dedicated screw. I used a stakon ring treminal connector here, and applied more liquid electrical tape. [BTW I found Walmart sold the liquid electrical tape the cheapest, in the auto dept]. One bit advice I can give is to try and avoid the use of crimp terminals. They will corrode. If you must use them, seal them up with liquid tape. Otherwise soldering is the way to go.  I'm no expert. Your results may vary 
Good luck with the job.
Eric IP: 216.209.109.66 |
SuperPiper
Member
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posted September 12, 2005 08:53 PM
Years ago, we owned a house trailer. The tailights always needed fiddling & wiggling. The aluminized siding was the ground. The self-tapping screws all seemed to be loose and stripped. I ran a conductor from the base of each socket to the channel iron frame. Life was better.The old wiring on the boat trailer was 2-wire along each side. I bought a roll of 4-wire and will run it down each side. That way, I can maintain the colour convention at each tailight, have a ground at each tailight and 1 spare wire at each tailight. The trailer frame will still be ground, therefore, there will be a first degree of redundancy. Eric, what is liquid tape? It sounds like I need a tube! IP: 67.70.16.63 |
whited
unregistered
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posted September 12, 2005 10:44 PM
I got my liquid tape from an electricians supply store. It came in a bottle with a brush type applicator attached to the cap.
Mine is a black rubbery liquid that reminds me of the glue you could buy in the past.IP: 142.167.224.116 |
workman
Member
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posted September 14, 2005 10:27 PM
quote:
Originally posted by SuperPiper:
Sapphire is floating at the cottage dock. While the trailer is empty in the backyard would be a good time for some trailer projects.Grounding through the trailer frame is somewhat unreliable. A 3rd conductor from each taillight directly to the plug would be more efficient. What gauge wire is used for trailer wiring? Would stranded outdoor extension cord wire work? Is it cheaper than trailer wire? What is the greasy stuff put on/in electrical connections? How is it applied? Is it smeared around after a bulb is pushed into its socket? Is it stuffed into the socket before the bulb is inserted? Are marker lights on the side of the trailer required? Are they required on both sides?
IP: 216.197.183.47 |
workman
Member
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posted September 14, 2005 10:43 PM
hello . not to flog a dead horse, and i am not a spokeperson for princess auto but , this weeks flier has - brush on elec.tape 5.00 ,
split loom 25' 6.00-7.00 shrink tubing 3 size
4.00-6.00(50pc),flat 4 conector with 25'wire 6.00. plus more trailer stuff . they do mail order (i have never used this service?)if you dont live near a store ,most of there trailer accsesories are Grote . they are also on line (pdf i think) at www.princessauto.com . by the way thanx to all for the great postings i find most to be quite helpful
mike
ps. sorry for previous post i did something wrong?
IP: 216.197.183.47 |
Eric
Member
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posted September 15, 2005 07:13 AM
Ahh, this months Princess Auto flyer is full of good stuff! Many trailer items are on special, as well as tarps for winter storage
The tarp in the pic is a 24x12 tarp, which I believe [from memory] is on special.I have no financial interest etc.......... Eric IP: 130.63.85.93 |
whited
unregistered
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posted September 15, 2005 10:18 AM
I do like the silver tarps. I doubt I would buy a canvas tarp again. My 24' x 18' is a bit awkward to handle by myself. If you got 2 or three years out of the silver, at a fraction of the price, you're better off.IP: 142.167.224.116 |
Shortstay
Member
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posted September 15, 2005 09:48 PM
Eric, the picture of Paradise with the tarp on reminds me of your nifty PVC skeleton underneath. You had suggested earlier this year you might post additional info on that contraption before storage time came around.------------------
Kevin
Shortstay III, #901 IP: 198.115.167.26 | |
